RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 8, 2022 14:53:20 GMT -7
Hey, gang. As I approach the finish line on my frock/overshirt, I’m already beginning to consider another garment project. I’ll do a shirt soon (check or white linen), but I want to do something else in between shirts. I’m in the que for breeches and a waistcoat in linen from Kathy at Cobb Creek, but I think I’m up for doing a wool waistcoat for winter. I think. Any thoughts on materials, construction or, especially, patterns that are appropriate for 1745-1755 would be appreciated. I’ve managed to acquire a pretty good reference library on clothing, but I’d love the group’s input. Thanks in advance, everyone.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 10, 2022 9:03:11 GMT -7
I’m considering using this Melton for the front. I do wish more of this was available… so will need to consider what material for the back. Good opportunity to try my hand at dying wool, too. Just need a pattern… I also have this flannel which is soft as a newborns hair. This will likely end up as a gilet or under-waistcoat… either next to skin or just over the shirt. I’m trying to find a good example of this garment to make a pattern from. In the absence of period accounts, I’m thinking of making it a single piece with a few buttons or a lace closure in front. But first the waistcoat. 😎
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Post by paranger on Jun 10, 2022 9:17:04 GMT -7
A plain linen (bleached or unbleached) back (laced or not) and wool front would be perfectly pc.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 10, 2022 9:41:43 GMT -7
Absolutely. I had it in mind to do all wool for warmth as I have a linen waistcoat on order, but a linen back would do.
Actually… I guess I could use the waistcoat I have coming as a pattern. Hmmm…
Now… what color to dye this Melton…
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 10, 2022 16:09:54 GMT -7
Were wool waistcoats universally lined?
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Post by artificer on Jun 10, 2022 16:53:03 GMT -7
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Post by spence on Jun 10, 2022 17:14:02 GMT -7
I did a quick scan of my small collection and extracted most of the waistcoats for which material was mentioned. Spelling as original. Most were mid or later 18th century, I tagged those in the 1740-1770 time frame. As to what fibers these fabrics were made from you are on your own. paranger is your friend.
lincey duffil sagathy calico---1768 nankeen fearnought kersey halfthick--1745 silk and cotton cotton--1747 silk dimity velvet Virginia cloth Virginia wool plush--1767 baiz flannel eider down swanskin thickset--1765 fustian scarlet cloth--1766 blanketing holland--1756, militia worsted knit corduroy
Spence
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 11, 2022 6:40:17 GMT -7
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 11, 2022 8:06:39 GMT -7
Gus! Thanks! I’m going to need to spend some time with that document. And read it on a larger screen…
Spence - wonderful stuff as usual, friend. The period fabrics are really fascinating. paranger has the encyclopedia. What I’ve never seen is a compiled list of the historic cloth with the closest modern equivalent. That would be handy beyond ‘linen’ or ‘wool’. Even ‘broadcloth’ is an expansive description.
Hand! Thank you! I think I’ll be able to work up a pattern and construction methods with those photos and Gus’s link. Plus some other information I’ve collected. I keep reading about the use of interfacing along the button lines of a waistcoat. Did you use any? The materials look great.
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 11, 2022 10:54:24 GMT -7
I used the selvedge edge of the cloth as the front edge where the buttons go. Cloth is cotton inside & out - no interfacing was used. IIRC, this was machine sewn with hand finishing. Well-worn and used hard.
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Post by artificer on Jun 11, 2022 12:45:57 GMT -7
Spence and Paranger,
From your list that Spence listed above, I have some questions, if I may?
scarlet cloth--1766 I assume this was very fine cloth dyed by using crushed Cochineal Beetles?
holland--1756, militia I'm used to seeing this description of cloth, even though I'm not sure of what it is off the top of my head. I'm wondering if there is any mention of color with it, such as "Madder Red," the lower cost dye made from the Madder plant?
Gus
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Post by artificer on Jun 11, 2022 13:12:54 GMT -7
Gus! Thanks! I’m going to need to spend some time with that document. And read it on a larger screen… You are most welcome. It may not get quite as hot in PA as it gets in VA in the Spring and Summer, but I know you can have fairly severe humidity there and that's why that info may be especially useful to you, should you wish to wear your waistcoat in activities in the heat and especially high humidity. I cannot more strongly suggest your first waistcoat be made with a linen back AND front, if you plan on wearing the waistcoat alone and especially under a suit coat in the heat and humidity. The color of the front part of the waistcoat may somewhat match your suit coat or not, depending on your wishes. I have personal experience with a white wool waistcoat, made of a finer wool cloth front and linen back that downright parboiled me at Colonial Williamsburg. The next year I had deliberately acquired an off white back and white linen front waistcoat and it made a HUGE difference in comfort in the heat and humidity. Gus
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 11, 2022 14:06:03 GMT -7
Thanks, Gus. I have a linen waistcoat on order. ~5 ounce linen front and back and lined in linen. This wool one would specifically be for cold weather. Our flintlock season begins the day after Christmas and goes a couple weeks into January. So I hope to make one from a fairly substantial wool, front and back. This Melton should work a treat and I’m pretty sure I can dye it close to either by linen breeches or coat colors.
Still unsure about a lining.
And how cold linen breeches may get even with a leggings and upper body garments essentially covering my upper legs and bum.
I loathe the summer heat and humidity here, but can usually stand it even in period wool costume. My main suit of clothes will be linen. My single concern for hot weather is appropriate leggings.
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 11, 2022 14:10:28 GMT -7
Remember your layers. A combination of lighter layers will be warmer than a couple heavier layers. I'd rather have a coat, sleeved waistcoat or jacket in wool than a heavy wool waistcoat.
Also, a blanket worn as an outer covering, pinned at the neck and belted at the waist will be far more versatile. Roll and carry on a tumpline when not sitting...
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 11, 2022 14:12:22 GMT -7
Here’s the swatches I’ve decided on for my linen garments. ‘Nine Iron’ gray coat (matches my personality… ha.) and ‘Potting Soil’ waistcoat and breeches. The wool waistcoat would substitute for when I need more core warmth and I think I can get the wool to be close to the brown or gray. Or not. Who knows for color.
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