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Post by Black Hand on Apr 24, 2019 16:23:27 GMT -7
Sicilianhunter. That reply you made seems to be corrupted, I am unable to quote. I will therefore post here.Keith. That is my fault - I hit the wrong button and screwed-up SH's post... Still learning this forum software.
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 24, 2019 17:58:37 GMT -7
Hand, Did you make the quills? Are they pretty fragile? Do you need to carry a few when in the field as back-ups? I'd be interested in the process if you are able to show it. Much like walking in moccasins, learning to write with a quill can be frustrating until you get a feel for the skill. My skill-level still results in blotchy, smeared writing, much to my annoyance...
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Apr 24, 2019 19:00:21 GMT -7
Here you go Sicilianhunter.
Keith.
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 24, 2019 19:21:06 GMT -7
There is also a chapter on Quill pens in Beth Gilgun's book on pp 238-241.
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Apr 24, 2019 20:14:22 GMT -7
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Post by straekat on Apr 25, 2019 4:18:10 GMT -7
Hide glues made from boiling leather to get a collagen concentrate were used by woodworkers until about 1900, when commercially made glues started appearing on the market. Hide glues are very "aromatic" to make at home, and should not be made indoors, or with any cooking utensils you ever want to use for cooking again in the future.
They have a set time that allows pieces to be taken apart and put together again if a mistake in the assembly process was made and discovered. After a day the glue has set up and can be handled with no worries about the item falling apart. After the glue has set/hardened, it can still be taken apart by applying wetting a joint and applying heat. Steam works really well. Antique furniture made before WWII was generally made using hide glues, and afterwards, a wide array of synthetics took over. If you want to properly restore antique furniture, a traditional hide glue is the only way to do the job properly. Carpenter's glue or other modern glues can be make taking joints apart almost impossible and breaking it, then scraping/sanding/grinding the old glue off may be the only recourse and you can ruin the joint or entire piece in the process.
If you do a browser search, there are videos on how to make traditional glues. They aren't hard to make, and if you don't want to bother with actually making a traditional glue, they can be purchased, usually in flake form. Most of these have a limited shelf life, and when activated with water, have to be used within a short time span before they turn into a solid block or glob.
Regarding period pencils, the oldest known graphite pencil dates to circa 1500, and was discovered setting on an attic beam in an old German house. It resembles a flat rectangular carpenter's pencil of the type still being made and sold today. A modern carpenter's pencil is usually covered with a painted or applied finish that is easily sanded off, and with not much money (less than one US dollar) and the application of sand-paper, you too can have a reasonably accurate period pencil that doesn't require gluing wooden slats and a slab of graphite together.
I use a "carpenter's pencil" and have serious reservations about Townsend's and other vendors claims about the "porte crayon" as a mechanical pencil being used a "pencil". They can be documented to the 18th century, however, the few sources I've encountered that mention them, usually tends to be in the context of artists use for holding a charcoal stick meant for sketching, not writing. The "mechanical pencil" might be a "reenactorism" and it's use subject to being researched further and with better documentation that what the likes of Townsend and others list on their websites, etc.
A short history of the porte crayon....
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 25, 2019 6:08:03 GMT -7
I've made hide glue at home by simmering rawhide scrapings and sinew in water for hours. While there is an odor, I did not find it overly unpleasant. Homemade hide glue can become very fragrant if it starts to spoil - we stored ours in the refrigerator without any problems. To use, the gel was heated in a double-boiler until it liquefied (a little water could be added if it was too thick - think warm maple syrup consistency).
One can "make" hide glue at home using plain unflavored gelatin (Knox) from the store by only adding enough water to make a thick syrup and heating until it has thickened and liquefied. Crystallized hide glue can also be purchased from various sources and comes as a powder, granules, flakes or chunks, though it can be expensive.
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 25, 2019 6:46:05 GMT -7
Making hide glue I've found is another useful skill to know, yet a PIA... Never thought about the gelatin deal, very interesting to say the least.
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Apr 25, 2019 7:22:16 GMT -7
Hand, Did you make the quills? Are they pretty fragile? Do you need to carry a few when in the field as back-ups? I'd be interested in the process if you are able to show it. See ourpastimes.com/how-to-make-a-quill-pen-12112198.html for instructions similar to the ones I followed to make my quills. There also seem to be videos that show how to cut quill pens. Quills are relatively durable and can be re-sharpened if needed. Once heat-treated & cooled, only take a few minutes to make. You may need to experiment with tip shape... Hand, After watching several you tube videos, it seems pretty straight forward. I have some Mallard wing feathers to try on by they may be a bit too small for the purpose. We'll see. Otherwise I will need to find some goose, swan or turkey feathers to use. The Sicilian
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Apr 25, 2019 7:26:55 GMT -7
Sicilianhunter. That reply you made seems to be corrupted, I am unable to quote. I will therefore post here.Keith. Various glues were made in the 18th century, animal glues & fish glue. I could only make a guess at the glue type used on pencils. Fish glue seems to have been the best: "The swim bladder of the sturgeon is a membrane that dilates or retracts during the life of the fish. The protein collagen fibres that it is made of have the particularity of being extremely flexible. The glue is extracted using the same process as is used for other protein glues". www.gillesperrault.com/the-virtues-of-ancient-glues/But my guess would be rabbit glue ( could have been any of the animal glues). Keith. Keith, No worries! I was suspicious when the quote strung its letters vertically !! LOL Thanks for the link. I was originally thinking of using pitch in the right mix so it wasn't to brittle of too sticky on the pencil.
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Apr 25, 2019 7:28:00 GMT -7
There is also a chapter on Quill pens in Beth Gilgun's book on pp 238-241. Dang!!! I have her book, I'll check out that chapter. Thanks
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Apr 25, 2019 7:30:28 GMT -7
Here you go Sicilianhunter.Keith. Keith, this was the first video I watched! I like the quaint lady giving the tutorial!! I've been noticing a common denominator: ink blackened fingers!! LOL
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Apr 25, 2019 7:34:10 GMT -7
Keith, That is the best visual yet of the quill tip!! Thanks!
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 25, 2019 9:38:07 GMT -7
See ourpastimes.com/how-to-make-a-quill-pen-12112198.html for instructions similar to the ones I followed to make my quills. There also seem to be videos that show how to cut quill pens. Quills are relatively durable and can be re-sharpened if needed. Once heat-treated & cooled, only take a few minutes to make. You may need to experiment with tip shape... Hand, After watching several you tube videos, it seems pretty straight forward. I have some Mallard wing feathers to try on by they may be a bit too small for the purpose. We'll see. Otherwise I will need to find some goose, swan or turkey feathers to use. The Sicilian Turkey and goose make excellent pens, I actually favor goose over turkey, same for arrow fletchings. Make several and you'll get the hang of it quickly. Most tutorials don't mention using a small needle to punch a hole before making the vertical slit on the quill. This has two advantages, 1. It acts as a small ink reservoir which will prolong ink usage between wettings. 2. Most importantly it keeps the vertical cut from migrating further up the feathers shaft and acts as a stop. Small sketch below of what I'm describing.
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