|
|
Wood?
May 13, 2023 14:31:09 GMT -7
Post by bushfire on May 13, 2023 14:31:09 GMT -7
So you both have the same firelock? Are these guns a mass production piece or semi custom firelock? I would say semi custom, the fit and finish on mine is actually quite good in comparison to a lot of other guns I've seen. Thanks for the feedback on the wood. I was hoping it was cherry but had my doubts. What guns would be appropriate for cherry? I ended up sourcing a local builder in Australia (our last remaining flintlock builder) for my current custom piece that's being worked on. Perhaps down the track I could try again to get another custom gun out of the states, something in cheery whether a rifle or smoothbore would be nice. |
|
|
|
Wood?
May 13, 2023 16:16:31 GMT -7
Post by Black Hand on May 13, 2023 16:16:31 GMT -7
Try 2 patches, a thicker patch or a thinner patch, tow, wads, cards, more powder, less powder... Fiddling with the variables will get you an accurate load with the ball you have.
|
|
|
|
Wood?
May 13, 2023 16:27:46 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by brokennock on May 13, 2023 16:27:46 GMT -7
So you both have the same firelock? Are these guns a mass production piece or semi custom firelock? I would say semi custom, the fit and finish on mine is actually quite good in comparison to a lot of other guns I've seen. Thanks for the feedback on the wood. I was hoping it was cherry but had my doubts. What guns would be appropriate for cherry? I ended up sourcing a local builder in Australia (our last remaining flintlock builder) for my current custom piece that's being worked on. Perhaps down the track I could try again to get another custom gun out of the states, something in cheery whether a rifle or smoothbore would be nice. Cherry and other fruitwoods would work for an SMR I believe. Cherry and apple could be good for a New England fowling piece as well, I believe I have seen pear mentioned as well. |
|
|
|
Post by spence on May 13, 2023 17:13:43 GMT -7
bushfire, I can't say what guns cherry wood would be appropriate for, with one exception. Here's an original smooth rifle from the New England states ca 1820, according to those in the know. Cherry ages beautifully.   Spence |
|
coot
City-dweller
Posts: 156
|
Post by coot on May 13, 2023 20:58:53 GMT -7
I have Lee, Lyman and Parker-Hale molds. They all work fine. I also have several from Larry Calahan - who so far as I know, only makes (excellent) bag molds. His molds do have sprue cutters but they are like nippers built into the handles rather than the pivoting plate used on modern designs. I keep bag molds in my shooting bags & use them for period demonstrations & modern designs for producing quantities at home.
|
|
|
|
Wood?
May 14, 2023 0:15:15 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by bushfire on May 14, 2023 0:15:15 GMT -7
Try 2 patches, a thicker patch or a thinner patch, tow, wads, cards, more powder, less powder... Fiddling with the variables will get you an accurate load with the ball you have. I think the .600 PRB will produce good results, I was hoping to get a good bare ball load. My understanding of a hsitorical bare ball load is that it’s powder, ball, wadding material. To be honest it’s probably easier just to work on a PRB load with my current mould. If I could churn out results 3/4 as good as Spence I’d be a happy man. I really want to take a deer with my fusil. |
|
|
|
Post by brokennock on May 14, 2023 4:35:07 GMT -7
Have you tried a paper cartridge?
They don't have the best reputation for accuracy loaded as a musket load, but, they can be tweaked. In my smoothrifle a .595 ball placed in the same paper tube I make for my shot cartridges (which just barely fit in the muzzle) shot as accurately and to the same point of aim as that same ball patched and my .610 ball loaded with wads..... With the right powder charge.
Keep in mind that I don't stretch my ranges out as far as you need to. I try to get a rifle like group at 25 yards, test it at 50 yards, then tweek it until it is shooting 3 to 4 inch groups at 50 yards. My chances of seeing a deer and having a clean shot at it beyond 50 yards around here are extremely slim.
But, if the load won't perform at close range, it certainly won't perform at long range.
I'm going to start a new thread on snoothbore loads in hopes of everyone who shoots one contributing their best loads to form a database to work from. Hopefully it can become a good reference for folks like yourself to get some ideas and some starting points for load development.
|
|
|
|
Post by Black Hand on May 14, 2023 4:54:21 GMT -7
Try 2 patches, a thicker patch or a thinner patch, tow, wads, cards, more powder, less powder... Fiddling with the variables will get you an accurate load with the ball you have. I think the .600 PRB will produce good results, I was hoping to get a good bare ball load. My understanding of a hsitorical bare ball load is that it’s powder, ball, wadding material. To be honest it’s probably easier just to work on a PRB load with my current mould. If I could churn out results 3/4 as good as Spence I’d be a happy man. I really want to take a deer with my fusil. You could try a paper cartridge. |
|
