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Post by Black Hand on May 31, 2022 17:31:55 GMT -7
We’ll see if I can hold this pace. Never would have thought that the thread would be a stumbling block. Struggling with it did make my work with good thread immediately better and faster. So in the end I’m thankful for the experience. But I’m still glad it’s ash in the wind. I split the sewing over 3-5 days. The fiddly stuff like pleats and button-holes slow my progress.
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Post by brokennock on May 31, 2022 19:06:08 GMT -7
We’ll see if I can hold this pace. Never would have thought that the thread would be a stumbling block. Struggling with it did make my work with good thread immediately better and faster. So in the end I’m thankful for the experience. But I’m still glad it’s ash in the wind. I split the sewing over 3-5 days. The fiddly stuff like pleats and button-holes slow my progress. But worth the time to do right. I can't stand shirts, jackets, coats, etc. with poorly sewn button holes. I find it extremely aggravating when I try to unbutton something and the button gets caught up in loose buttonhole thread.
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Post by Black Hand on May 31, 2022 19:16:44 GMT -7
Not a problem: Left - outside; Right - inside view of buttonhole.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on May 31, 2022 21:46:16 GMT -7
Not a problem: Left - outside; Right - inside view of buttonhole. Nice! Leather sleeve band edging?
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 1, 2022 4:00:06 GMT -7
Yes - my way of addressing frayed cuffs. Then given a little creative/artistic flair with pinking....
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 1, 2022 5:44:02 GMT -7
Well done. I like it. I’ve had a seamstress do the same on some modern shirts with sleeve fraying. I’ve also ran buttonhole stitches on the cuff edge as a repair. (That’s a bomber fix once waxed!) I like well mended things. You should see all the repairs on my tin cloth cruiser!
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 1, 2022 8:58:39 GMT -7
I'd considered buttonhole stitching, but the drag on my skin would have annoyed me. I don't like me when I'm annoyed and others like me even less....
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 2, 2022 17:30:04 GMT -7
Sleeve bands and collar done. Next… either building sleeves or working the shoulders and collar. Hmmm…
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 2, 2022 18:03:00 GMT -7
Sleeve bands and collar done. Next… either building sleeves or working the shoulders and collar. Hmmm… Collar and cuffs are the last thing I put on the shirt.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 5, 2022 7:42:22 GMT -7
Completed a nice, small rolled hem around the neck slit and reinforced the bottom with buttonhole stitches and a thread bar. Just about finished with the neck gussets. I found these darn aggravating. The first real challenge to get everything to lay right. They’re just about in, then I can pin the collar in place and check the fit. I cut the body fairly wide to allow a good wool layer under the frock but think I may have gone a bit too wide. I’ll need to check before setting the sleeves in.
Has anyone taken on a waistcoat or coat as a home hand sewn project?
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 5, 2022 9:25:52 GMT -7
Has anyone taken on a waistcoat or coat as a home hand sewn project? Yes - though there may be a few hidden long, straight seams that got machine-sewn. The only thing you save is time - the effort is still the same.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 5, 2022 9:43:57 GMT -7
Has anyone taken on a waistcoat or coat as a home hand sewn project? Yes - though there may be a few hidden long, straight seams that got machine-sewn. The only thing you save is time - the effort is still the same. You bet. I vastly prefer hand sewing to fooling with a machine. The time is well spent for me. I’m more worried about all the curved bits coming together correctly and having it all fit and hang right. This heavy linen frock made of rectangles seems pretty forgiving compared to something like a ‘tailored’ garment like a coat or jacket that’s round, has a lining, etc. I’ll eventually try something at that level. I figure a good progression would be… This overshirt/frock Common shirt Greatcoat Coat or waistcoat I’m really enjoying this process. Appreciate the feedback and support, Hand.
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 5, 2022 9:57:47 GMT -7
Pin the wrong sides together, sew, trim the allowance, turn right side out then press. You should get curves to match just fine. Acute corners may take a little massaging with a chopstick and trimming to get everything to sit flat.
Waistcoats are easy. Tailored coats are a little more tricky.
Making a "muslin" will help you establish fit and then can be used as the pattern. I use the blue wrap used for surgical packs, pins and staples.
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Post by spence on Jun 5, 2022 12:32:12 GMT -7
Has anyone taken on a waistcoat or coat as a home hand sewn project? I did a waistcoat, had no problems, but I hand sewed only the visible seams. I never tackled a coat, but did make breeches with a fall. I guess those were my most ambitious clothing project. My sewing won't pass muster here, but the clothes have seen a lot of fairly hard use for over 30 years and are still in good shape. Spence
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Post by Black Hand on Jun 5, 2022 13:07:56 GMT -7
Spence, If someone is close enough to critique the stitching on your clothing, they had better be friends. I'm not hung up on hand vs. machine sewn - we each have our own standards. I hand sew because it is easier and I enjoy it (in a perverse way) though (as previously mentioned) internal seams that will never see the light of day (or if I'm pressed for time) may get the machine.
Honest use, repairs and experienced clothing (i.e. stained in pursuit of knowledge) say so much more. Period clothes shouldn't look fresh from the dry-cleaners and spotlessly clean. Albert
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