RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 8:41:21 GMT -7
Post by RyanAK on Jun 6, 2022 8:41:21 GMT -7
I’ve been lucky to pick up an odd yard of wool here and there for not many shillings. I’m not very strong on the various types of wool cloth available during the 18th century, so thought I’d start building a little fabric research library of swatches. The swatches just happen to be attached to yardage… and now I’m deciding what I can make. The dark blue is Pendleton flannel. Fairly light ‘shirting’ weight, but a very dense weave. ‘Outdoorsman’ shirt weight. I likely have enough for some leggings. Or…? Open to suggestions. The white is a warm off-white ‘Melton’. I have a full yard and it’s nice stuff. Maybe 10oz., napped on one side. I originally bought this to have some wool to experiment with natural dyes. Regular weave. Not sure what to do with this. The beige stuff was simply described as ‘soft wool’, and it really is. 10oz. Twill weave. Not crazy for the color, but this feels like it should be a garment. I only have a 60” yard… maybe a waistcoat with a different back material? I’d call it a flannel, but it’s likely something else. Really soft and would make a great heavy against-the-skin shirt. The gray/brown material is “Brown & Burgundy Mixed Wool Coarse Cloth” from Burnley & Trowbridge. It’s heavy, sturdy, dense and rough. You don’t want this against skin unless your monastic order demands it. The period name would be ‘shoddy’, but don’t let that fool ya. This is a quality outdoor wool. I have a 60” yard and originally purchased it for winter leggings which I think it would be ideal for. Maybe a Canadian Cap… but that would definitely need to be lined. It’s super interesting stuff, and with enough of it, it would be fantastic for a tradesman class greatcoat. Rugged matchcoat or half blanket. This is the kind of material that gets you thinking. I’ll post some detail photos. Pendleton remnant ($10) is from eBay. The Melton ($18/yard shipped) and beige ($24/yard shipped) is from Etsy. The shoddy ($20/yard) is from B&T.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 8:46:47 GMT -7
Post by RyanAK on Jun 6, 2022 8:46:47 GMT -7
The shoddy from B&T. I’m really intrigued by this stuff, but don’t want it touching my skin. I think this may also come close to period ‘frieze’. The Melton. I need to look up a definition to see what makes this Melton. 100% wool, compared to a lot of 80% mixes out there. And the ‘soft’ wool. Wrap a baby in this and let them dream the sweetest dreams.
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Post by paranger on Jun 6, 2022 9:50:44 GMT -7
From Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles. I knew this thing would come in handy 😁
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Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 10:03:53 GMT -7
Post by Black Hand on Jun 6, 2022 10:03:53 GMT -7
I’ve been lucky to pick up an odd yard of wool here and there for not many shillings. I’m not very strong on the various types of wool cloth available during the 18th century, so thought I’d start building a little fabric research library of swatches. The swatches just happen to be attached to yardage… and now I’m deciding what I can make. View AttachmentThe dark blue is Pendleton flannel. Fairly light ‘shirting’ weight, but a very dense weave. ‘Outdoorsman’ shirt weight. I likely have enough for some leggings. Or…? Open to suggestions. The white is a warm off-white ‘Melton’. I have a full yard and it’s nice stuff. Maybe 10oz., napped on one side. I originally bought this to have some wool to experiment with natural dyes. Regular weave. Not sure what to do with this. The beige stuff was simply described as ‘soft wool’, and it really is. 10oz. Twill weave. Not crazy for the color, but this feels like it should be a garment. I only have a 60” yard… maybe a waistcoat with a different back material? I’d call it a flannel, but it’s likely something else. Really soft and would make a great heavy against-the-skin shirt. The gray/brown material is “Brown & Burgundy Mixed Wool Coarse Cloth” from Burnley & Trowbridge. It’s heavy, sturdy, dense and rough. You don’t want this against skin unless your monastic order demands it. The period name would be ‘shoddy’, but don’t let that fool ya. This is a quality outdoor wool. I have a 60” yard and originally purchased it for winter leggings which I think it would be ideal for. Maybe a Canadian Cap… but that would definitely need to be lined. It’s super interesting stuff, and with enough of it, it would be fantastic for a tradesman class greatcoat. Rugged matchcoat or half blanket. This is the kind of material that gets you thinking. I’ll post some detail photos. Pendleton remnant ($10) is from eBay. The Melton ($18/yard shipped) and beige ($24/yard shipped) is from Etsy. The shoddy ($20/yard) is from B&T. Not really enough there for anything other than small projects. Maybe mittens, cap, moccasin liners or gilet. If you have enough for leggings - excellent! Just my opinion and worth every cent you paid for it....
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 10:39:19 GMT -7
Post by RyanAK on Jun 6, 2022 10:39:19 GMT -7
From Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles. I knew this thing would come in handy 😁 Oh! Good stuff! Yup. This is Melton. Truth in advertising!
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Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 10:52:25 GMT -7
Post by Black Hand on Jun 6, 2022 10:52:25 GMT -7
Melton was used for greatcoats.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 10:53:00 GMT -7
Post by RyanAK on Jun 6, 2022 10:53:00 GMT -7
I have an old Faribo blanket shard that I’ve cut out moccasin liners from. And there’s enough there for mittens, too. The Pendleton blue flannel should make for leggings. Light, summertime leggings. Necessary to full the wool for leggings? I’ll definitely make winter leggings from the shoddy. Maybe a cap. If I ever make a greatcoat, this stuff will get serious consideration. I measured and can get the fronts and pocket flaps of a 1750s waistcoat out of either the Melton or beige twill. There’s more of the beige available, but the Melton was the last of the last bolt. ‘Gilet’… like an under-waistcoat?
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Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 16:20:43 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by brokennock on Jun 6, 2022 16:20:43 GMT -7
.....‘Gilet’… like an under-waistcoat? Yes. If I can ever find some soft, even flannel weight wool, at a reasonable price, a gilet is high on my list of clothing to aquire/make. Okay,,,, I really don't want to make it. I loath sewing fabric. But, if I can get the material I have a friend that I think can make one.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 16:37:25 GMT -7
Post by RyanAK on Jun 6, 2022 16:37:25 GMT -7
Yes. If I can ever find some soft, even flannel weight wool, at a reasonable price, a gilet is high on my list of clothing to aquire/make. Okay,,,, I really don't want to make it. I loath sewing fabric. But, if I can get the material I have a friend that I think can make one. Interesting. Anyone got a pic or pattern? Or is this just a ‘draw and cut’ sort of thing?
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Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 16:54:12 GMT -7
via mobile
RyanAK likes this
Post by brokennock on Jun 6, 2022 16:54:12 GMT -7
Yes. If I can ever find some soft, even flannel weight wool, at a reasonable price, a gilet is high on my list of clothing to aquire/make. Okay,,,, I really don't want to make it. I loath sewing fabric. But, if I can get the material I have a friend that I think can make one. Interesting. Anyone got a pic or pattern? Or is this just a ‘draw and cut’ sort of thing? If I recall, Keith, or maybe Spence, has a picture of one. I know I got the info on them from one of the two when at some point I asked about period undergarments for keeping warm.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Wool!!
Jun 6, 2022 19:49:39 GMT -7
Post by RyanAK on Jun 6, 2022 19:49:39 GMT -7
This? How… French. 😜 Looks effective and I gots some wool. Can always order more, too. I found the thread here about the gilet. Spence and Kieth of course had the info. Our pal paranger had a good point about Anglo / German / Scots pattern and use… more research. Off to read Kieth’s blog to see what he has to say.
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Wool!!
Jun 7, 2022 1:01:42 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by brokennock on Jun 7, 2022 1:01:42 GMT -7
If, IF, I remember correctly, my impression was that the gilet was worn as an undergarment. I could have misinterpreted what I was reading though.
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