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Post by straekat on Apr 17, 2019 5:28:09 GMT -7
J P Ryan's "Past Patterns" has an offering for fall-front breeches of the period right around the American Revolution. Her pattern is based on the study of original examples, and is designed to fit the way originals did. She clearly states these do not fit the way modern clothing does. Included with her pattern is this:
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Post by straekat on Apr 17, 2019 6:01:32 GMT -7
During the 18th century, "proper dress" generally required wearing something over top of the shirt, resulting in the top of the breeches and a large part of the pelvis area not being visible. If you wear a hunting shirt/frock over a shirt not much will be visible, unless there are times when it gets hot or your clothing is wet and you take it off the breeches will be.
The breeches you wear, the material used, construction, etc, are personal choices. I can tell you what is correct, and the rest is then up to you.
Attached are three images. The first is a drawing from a French publication dated 1763, showing a pair of leather breeches, with a VERY short rise from the crotch to the upper band on the breeches. This short "rise" means the top of the breeches was somewhere well south of the hip bones and not too far north or body parts that are not typically seen in public. It reminds me of a European style speedo and how low those are worn in front.
The second shows a typical pair of breeches offered by many vendors, where the waist band fits above the hip bones about the level of the navel. This may be comfortable for many people used to modern clothing. Although many re-enactors, people at rendezvous and elsewhere wear breeches this way, no one other than yourself knows until you remove whatever clothing is worn over the shirt. The last photos shows breeches worn without a waistcoat or anything else on top. Although they appear to be worn at the same height as the previous photo, they are worn much lower. The position of the elbow and front edge of the hip bones line up on the human body. The person in the photo is wearing breeches with the band riding along the hips and dipping lower in the front. When you compare this image to the second one, the difference is clear. How you wear them will depend on your body shape, and whether you are built like many people were then, or as modern Americans tend to be now.
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Post by straekat on Apr 17, 2019 6:24:46 GMT -7
Klinger's "Sketchbook 76" has line-drawings that can be used to make clothing, provided they are enlarged and if necessary adjusted where it might be needed. Although the image comes from there, it has been scanned, enlarged and created as a printable pdf file to fit a 32" waist, and with a gusset can accommodate another two or even three inches.
If you print the image, the pages will require being overlapped, then tapped together to form a single large sheet that can be cut up to create a cutting template for a first attempt try-out pair. Klinger's sketches do not provide information on seam allowances, and that depends on the material you use and it's density. Cotton or linen can easily fray, so you should use 1/2" or thereabouts and determine if they will fit your legs, etc. There are no instructions, however, Keith's web-site has Beth Gilgun's instructions on how to make a pair of french fly breeches. Klnger's pattern is for the fall front, however, the pattern can be modified to make a pair of these.
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Apr 17, 2019 15:11:14 GMT -7
I use my waistcoat pockets, far more comfortable & practicle. I even carry the wads for my pistol in my waistcoat pocket to make them more readily available & relieve the space in my shot pouch. My waistcoat hides the fly on my breeches totally. Keith.
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Post by straekat on Apr 17, 2019 15:45:31 GMT -7
I use my waistcoat pockets, far more comfortable & practicle. I even carry the wads for my pistol in my waistcoat pocket to make them more readily available & relieve the space in my shot pouch. My waistcoat hides the fly on my breeches totally. Keith.Amen to that. My other likes to say women can't own enough shoes, purses, etc. I say a man can't have enough pockets. I like having as many pockets that look reasonable enough to wear... ;-)
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Post by brokennock on Apr 17, 2019 22:24:32 GMT -7
Thank you straekat, the info on the rise and where they are worn is excellent. I don't think I'll be wearing them "speedo style," but that 3rd picture looks about right.
I agree about the pockets. I'd rather carry stuff in waistcoat (or jacket/vest in modern clothes) pockets than pants pockets if possible. But, can't have too many pockets unless they ride somewhere that weight in them causes issues. I wear a photographer's vest or something similar almost every day, all those pockets are my equivalent to a "man purse" or woman's purse,,,,, and,,, it covers my 1911 or Hi-Power.
I think I'll be purchasing any breaches I get, if I can find some reasonably priced. I have too much on my plate to start making my own clothing. The pair I have need me to keep working at loosing some of this belly that appeared out of nowhere. I can just barely button them if I wear them very low, but not really practical.
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Post by brokennock on Apr 18, 2019 23:47:14 GMT -7
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Apr 19, 2019 1:17:35 GMT -7
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