Fine Shirts

It seems that textile and costume historians find it difficult to narrow down an extant shirt to an specific decade, but some universalities seem to exist among shirts in the mid-18th century. The common ‘truths’ seem to be:

1. The general pattern and method of construction. Common and fine shirts were essentially made in like manner, differing only in material quality and ‘fancy’ details. The shirt is a series of squares, rectangles and triangles. Curvature to match a body is created by gussets and gathers. 

2. Shirts in the era were ‘underwear’ and because of this, period images showing details of the shirt are tough to come by. 

3. The quality of construction was at a VERY high level, even for ‘coarse’ shirts. 

4. The investment in time to construct was great, and shirts were highly valued. 

I’ve tried to limit my research to pre-AWI, but it’s a tough row to hoe. I’ve made my best assumptions as to age of artifacts and images. Fashion was fluid, and within reason, some variation was apparent. One thing that stands out to me is that the ‘common wisdom’ for details such as collar and cuffs aren’t as cut and dry as many would have us believe. 

Here’s my first example, likely 1750s-1770s. Note the very fine gathers at the sleeve bands, shoulders, and neck. The sleeve bands are narrow, likely ~1”. The collar differs from what many believe is the ‘correct’ period collar in that it is quite tall. When studying period images, mid-century fashion offered several ‘proper’ ways for men to wear neckwear, including over a tall collar. The neck kerchief could also be tied and the collar turned down over it. Or… the collar turned down and the neck kerchief tied over the turned-down collar. Note the arm/shoulder seams are well off the natural shoulder and the sleeves are quite full. 



Note the collar and cuffs in this c.1740s image. 

I have come across many references to "sleeve buttons", used in such a way as to make me believe they are speaking of what we call cufflinks, today. Researching them I see that they might go back to the 1500s, and that they were very common by mid-18th century. The term "cifflinks" was first recorded in 1887, but they were apparently a lot older than that under another name. Have you seen any original shirts made for links?

Back in the very beginning of my experience in re-enacting I made four shirts, one of which has ruffled cuffs for links and an accompanying stock. I eventually went off in another, much less formal, direction in my impression, never used the shirt at all, but have always been curious how HC it was.

Spence

Reproductions based on found examples. 

There seems to be a great number of originals, many images of them in the antiques market.

I've found references to them made from brass, silver, gold, glass, crystal stone, 'pebble', stamped metal and stone. 

Spence

NB Ran across this page with images of original 18th-century shirts, several of which have quite long cuffs.

A lot of original 18th-century cufflinks here:

www.bing.com/images/search?q=18th-century+cufflinks&id=583297485BA37326E7297367101EFD066A959F3F&form=IQFRBA&tsc=ImageHoverTitle&first=1&disoverlay=1

Spence

How about a 1764 Lady wearing sleeve buttons?


www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/11079


Or a Sailor in a Period Cartoon?


www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-128292

Both of these came from:

wmboothdraper.com/Buttons/buttons_main.htm

Gus

Here’s an 18th century shirt with wide cuffs. It can’t be precisely dated, so we’re left guessing when the style became prevalent. 



Also on this shirt is seen the very common cross-stitch owner’s initials and shirt number.