RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Apr 3, 2023 11:10:42 GMT -7
White, unbleached and linen checks seem to be period correct for British North America in the mid-18th Century. But what about other colors? Do we have documentation for, say, indigo or madder dyed linen shirting among the British colonies? If no... why not? There seem to be documented examples of colored shirts among the French in North America, and Native men seem to have taken to colors and prints. paranger and I chatted briefly about it off-forum and as he states it, it appears to be a cultural difference. It's a fashion choice among the English for white or checked shirts, not a technical barrier. In 1675, Benjamin Church made a statement about having his men take off their coats so potential rescuers could see they were English by their white shirts. So... this seems to be a thing. Ha. I can already hear Spence's archive machine starting it's warmup process...
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Post by paranger on Apr 3, 2023 12:04:09 GMT -7
I recall that prior to the abortive attack on Fort Duquesne popularly known as "Grant's Folly," troops were directed to don their spare shirts over their uniforms as the white linen would serve as a night-time Identification Friend Or Foe (IFF) expedient.
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Post by spence on Apr 3, 2023 13:38:36 GMT -7
I don't have any info which would disagree with that. The major majority of shirt colors in my little database are given as white or checked. Most just don't mention color. There are a few isolated examples, mostly just single ones, of other colors...brown, brown linnen, striped (female), speckled, green baize.
FYI, while searching I collected mentions of the material shirts were made of, if you are interested.
linnen Osnabrig tow garlix cotton nettle bark woolen Russia sheeting Russia linnen Holland (cotton, I think) flannel muslin hemp canvas cotton and linnen ...and last but not least, 'chitterling'.
If you wanted a colored shirt in 18th century, it had to be a hunting shirt, got a lot of those.
Spence
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Post by brokennock on Apr 3, 2023 18:29:00 GMT -7
When a man today dresses up nicely, what color is his undershirt? White. Unless in some kind of uniform that allows for or demands a color, most men will be found to be wearing a white undershirt when they put on coat and tie type clothing..... Was not the 18th century man's shirt basically like an undershirt? It wasn't polite to be seen in just a shirt in mixed company or public, it was tucked in to form one's lower half underwear, and it was most always covered with 3 to 4, maybe more, articles of clothing. So, white seems appropriate....
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 4, 2023 4:46:25 GMT -7
You can't go wrong with one or more white and checked shirts. Just make sure the checks are woven rather than printed.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Apr 6, 2023 5:31:48 GMT -7
You can't go wrong with one or more white and checked shirts. Just make sure the checks are woven rather than printed. Oh I’m on my way to making a fine white shirt and I’m looking for a check that I like. Also have an unbleached shirt being made. This question was prompted by some really nice looking indigo-dyed shirting linen I came across and became curious about the lack of color in shirts.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Apr 6, 2023 5:49:20 GMT -7
When a man today dresses up nicely, what color is his undershirt? White. Unless in some kind of uniform that allows for or demands a color, most men will be found to be wearing a white undershirt when they put on coat and tie type clothing..... Was not the 18th century man's shirt basically like an undershirt? It wasn't polite to be seen in just a shirt in mixed company or public, it was tucked in to form one's lower half underwear, and it was most always covered with 3 to 4, maybe more, articles of clothing. So, white seems appropriate.... This makes as much sense as anything, ‘Nock. Good deductions.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Apr 6, 2023 5:51:52 GMT -7
I don't have any info which would disagree with that. The major majority of shirt colors in my little database are given as white or checked. Most just don't mention color. There are a few isolated examples, mostly just single ones, of other colors...brown, brown linnen, striped (female), speckled, green baize. FYI, while searching I collected mentions of the material shirts were made of, if you are interested. linnen Osnabrig tow garlix cotton nettle bark woolen Russia sheeting Russia linnen Holland (cotton, I think) flannel muslin hemp canvas cotton and linnen ...and last but not least, 'chitterling'. If you wanted a colored shirt in 18th century, it had to be a hunting shirt, got a lot of those. Spence Interesting data on materials used, Spence. I’m all for PC, but think I’ll pass on a nettle bark shirt!
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 6, 2023 5:58:23 GMT -7
Oh I’m on my way to making a fine white shirt... Don't forget the ruffles!
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Apr 6, 2023 6:03:40 GMT -7
Won’t I be quite the dandy in the forest? I actually have ‘handkerchief’ weight linen here I could make ruffles out of, but think I’ll keep it for… handkerchiefs.
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 6, 2023 11:02:30 GMT -7
No one can accuse you of being a dandy, fop or macaroni...
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Apr 6, 2023 13:41:41 GMT -7
Even with a feather in my hat?
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Post by brokennock on Apr 6, 2023 14:37:58 GMT -7
You can't go wrong with one or more white and checked shirts. Just make sure the checks are woven rather than printed. Oh I’m on my way to making a fine white shirt and I’m looking for a check that I like. Also have an unbleached shirt being made. This question was prompted by some really nice looking indigo-dyed shirting linen I came across and became curious about the lack of color in shirts. I doubled down on covering all the bases and got a white on white check.
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Post by lenapej on Apr 8, 2023 7:53:13 GMT -7
January 13, 1763
The Pennsylvania Gazette
FIVE POUNDS REWARD.
RUN away from New castle, a Servant man, named John Adair,
about five Feet ten Inches high, born in Ireland, and came
over with Capt. Osborn this last Fall: Had on when he went
away, a grey Frize Surtoot Coat, with a long Tail, yellow
carved Buttons, and double frogged Button Holes, blue Jacket,
old Leather Breeches, white Thread Stockings, and old Shoes,
with black rusty Steel Buckles; and took with him three
Shirts, two were white, the other brown, and a Pair of
Breeches made Trowsers. He is likely, of a fresh colour, fair
faced, and fair long Hair, tied behind, and is very remarkable
for a great Deal of short curled Hair under the other. Whoever
takes up said Servant, and secures him in any Goal, so as his
Master may have him again, shall the above Reward, paid by me
JAMES McCONNELL.
I've also seen an add of a "fine brown linen shirt" but can't seem to find it right now.
Here is an interesting check shirt
February 6, 1753
The Pennsylvania Gazette
RUN away from his bail, in the township of Salisbury,
Lancaster County, in the province of Pennsylvania, A man named
James Douglass, between 30 and 40 years of age, of middle
stature, pale complexion: Had on when he went away, An old felt
hat, worsted cap, an old brown coat, piecin several places,
two blue jackets, one of a lighter blue than the other, two
check shirts, the neck and sleeves of one of the shirts is
different from the body, sheepskin breeches, flower about the
button holes, sky blue stockings, pretty good shoes,
without buckles; has a wart under his left ear; and is a great
snuff taker: He took a pocket pistol with him. He came from
Ireland last year, and has a receipt that he got from Mr. Knox,
in Londonderry, when he paid his passage; and supposed he
will pass by it. Whoever takes up and secures the said James
Douglass, so as the subscriber may have him again, shall have
Three Pounds as a reward, paid by me WILLIAM McCANANT.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Apr 8, 2023 9:13:39 GMT -7
Interesting stuff! A check shirt of different patterns!
“Brown” was often used to describe unbleached or natural linen, so I always wonder if the period descriptions that mention brown shirts are referencing brown-dyed or unbleached fabric. For as common as indigo dying was, the lack of blue shirts is most surprising.
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