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Post by Black Hand on Sept 28, 2019 18:20:49 GMT -7
Miniature turning saw for coping saw blade:  Blade is 6.5" and the metal fixtures holding the blade are made from small cabinet bolts. Works far better than the coping saw I have - greater tension on the blade. |
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Post by brokennock on Sept 28, 2019 19:47:02 GMT -7
Sweet.
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Post by Black Hand on Sept 30, 2019 17:18:44 GMT -7
Profile cut without needing to make relief cuts like you would with a band saw. Two cuts, the first being for nearly 2/3rds of the distance and the second coming in from the other side. Board is 4 5/16" wide and 1/4" thick. The maximum depth of cut for the saw would be just over 4 5/16" if cutting in a straight line - curves are more an issue of needing space to maneuver the blade around the profile. Had I thought to turn the blade further and the saw upside-down, I might have made the cut in a single pass...  |
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Post by hawkeyes on Sept 30, 2019 18:01:47 GMT -7
Well now that is very nice, likely works better than the modern junk ones. I'll have to be making one of these, perfect for horn plugs and butte caps, which as you already mentioned mine has the same tension problem and it usually leads to profanities. Also That is one impressive cut!
Must have more images!
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Post by Black Hand on Sept 30, 2019 18:17:13 GMT -7
What you see was the first real cut with the saw. By comparison, the cut I made with the coping saw and/or benchtop bandsaw for the crest of my salt box looked like it was chewed out by half-blind, drunken rats... Below is a test cut I made while building the saw.  |
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Post by Black Hand on Sept 30, 2019 18:52:52 GMT -7
  A slightly undersized hole was drilled in the handle and the bolt run in to thread the hole. Once the amount of exposure needed to pass through the limb and hold the blade was determined, the remaining exposed thread was filed flush with the shank of the bolt. I could cross-pin the bolt(s), but haven't found it necessary so far. I also found I needed to elongate the holes (top/bottom) through the uprights so the bolts could move slightly to accommodate the the movement of the blade/handles when tightening the saw - otherwise the handles would end up angled upwards instead of in-line with the blade. Additional information at www.popularwoodworking.com/article/make-a-shapely-bowsaw-2/ |
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Post by Black Hand on Oct 2, 2019 10:53:25 GMT -7
Using Fir was a great proof of concept but not great for longevity. The limbs are not strong enough to withstand the strain of tension long-term (in such a small saw) and one has cracked. I will be re-making the saw in Maple using the existing handles and in the same pattern/size (Maple scrap is a little thinner, 9/16"/14mm). Will post a picture when I have completed the (re-)build...
Addendum: Repaired the limb with an insert so it might work to cut out the parts for the new frame.
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