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Post by brokennock on Nov 28, 2019 5:09:17 GMT -7
I am working on obtaining a F.&I. period waistcoat, with working pockets. These being longer than the Rev. war period waistcoat, are they generally long enough that if buttoned up and a belt or sash is worn around it, to carry one's knife, hawk, and split pouch, for the top of the pockets to ride lower than where the belt or sash would be worn?
I can see that this dilemma is based on trying to wear what is really a mid layer when outdoors, as an outer layer. But I can foresee times while hunting that this may be necessary.
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Post by straekat on Nov 28, 2019 5:58:28 GMT -7
Geometry and proportions were a big part of the 18th century way of making things. Answering your questions depends a little on whether your clothing is mass-produced vendor made or "custom" home made items that are made to fit you properly as clothing was worn at the time.
Mass-produced modern made waistcoats bought from vendors typically are made to fit a wearer's chest size, not body length. Most waistcoats made now have the bottom edge somewhere between the crotch and roughly mid-thigh. Some period waistcoats may come close to the top of the knee pan, but not quite all the way there. Using human proportions, the top of the pocket should be roughly where the wrist would be if the arm is hanging straight down the side of the body and/or about where the bottom of the crotch is. The bottom of the pocket inside the waistcoat should be about where the tips of the fingers are when the hand is extended inside the pocket.the Depending where you wear the belt (on the hips or the natural waist which back then was probably smaller in circumference than the hips, the pockets will probably be possible to use without too much trouble if you're wearing gear over the waistcoat. The example here is a period coat showing where the pockets are in relation to the wrist. The pocket location on waistcoats should be about the same.  |
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990 
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Post by Keith on Nov 28, 2019 14:09:44 GMT -7
My wife made the pattern for my waistcoat & she made the waistcoat.    Keith. |
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Post by brokennock on Nov 28, 2019 18:34:27 GMT -7
Thank you Keith. Very helpful information on the proportions. It sounds like a properly designed and fitted waistcoat at the time, would have the top of the pockets ride low enough that the belt/sash would not only not interfere with the use of the pockets, but, the belt/sash wouldn't ride up around the belly.
The challenge will be finding one that fits correctly, or, more likely having one made that fits that way.
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Nov 28, 2019 18:44:53 GMT -7
Thank you Keith. Very helpful information on the proportions. It sounds like a properly designed and fitted waistcoat at the time, would have the top of the pockets ride low enough that the belt/sash would not only not interfere with the use of the pockets, but, the belt/sash wouldn't ride up around the belly. The challenge will be finding one that fits correctly, or, more likely having one made that fits that way. I have looked at a lot of waistcoat images from this period, & the top of the pockets all seem to be just below the waistline like mine. Keith. |
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Post by spence on Nov 28, 2019 20:10:24 GMT -7
My waistcoat is said to represent a bit later period, about 1770, when they were a bit shorter, but it still has the pockets just below the waist line.  Spence |
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Post by artificer on Dec 4, 2019 10:19:55 GMT -7
Thank you Keith. Very helpful information on the proportions. It sounds like a properly designed and fitted waistcoat at the time, would have the top of the pockets ride low enough that the belt/sash would not only not interfere with the use of the pockets, but, the belt/sash wouldn't ride up around the belly. The challenge will be finding one that fits correctly, or, more likely having one made that fits that way. Not sure if you have the same "torso" problem I do. I'm 6'1" tall, but a lot of my height is in my torso rather than in my legs. So I could never find a "ready made" waist coat that fit correctly. One sleeved waist coat almost was long enough; but of the two waist coats I have, only one that was tailor made for me really fits correctly. Gus |
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Post by Black Hand on Dec 4, 2019 10:23:32 GMT -7
You could try a laced back. This might allow for some adjustment for body proportions or gravity/settling...
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ewoaf
City-dweller
Posts: 203
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Post by ewoaf on Feb 13, 2020 7:48:19 GMT -7
The top of the pockets, be it a coat or weskit, should be on the same latitude as the top of the pleats. To put it another way, where the skirts of a coat open at the top, should be a bit lower than the natural waist at about the hip line instead. Arms at the side naturally, your cuffs should be about at the pockets. 50s or 60s weskits can terminate about mid thigh. Don't go to the knees.
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