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Post by straekat on Dec 12, 2019 8:40:25 GMT -7
The sleeves: When you mark the pattern, be sure which sleeve size you use. You don't want to have a smaller size sleeve on a larger body panel. Use the same size, and the pattern works. Get it wrong, and it could mean having to cut more material. Although piecing material together was done, adding a strip of material around the entire edge of a sleeve wasn't done, and is the result of bad tailoring/sewing. The forearm tapers from the elbow to the wrist. This is important to remember if the cuffs are folded back at the wrist line. When the material is turned back onto the forearm, the angles reverse. You have to decide where the cuff will be before you cut the material. A way to avoid problems with the sleeves, is cut a trial version using the cheapest and most disposable cloth material you have. I like using drop cloth material, so anything that works, can also be used as lining material.
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Post by straekat on Dec 12, 2019 8:53:05 GMT -7
You can use "mariners cuffs", rollback cuffs with or without buttons, or no cuffs at all. Earlier I said I like pockets, and those roll-back cuffs are a nice feature to have. You don't need buttons (or have to button-hole) if the seams on the cuffs and sleeves are lightly stitched or tacked together. I made the cuffs on mine with two layers of material. Roll-back/turn-down cuffs were popular so hands could be kept warm without gloves. Lowered, a single layer of cloth exposes the seams. Doubling the material with the "raw or wrong sides" together cover the seams, and creates a firmer cuff than a single layer of cloth would. Doubling the cloth layers for the cuffs and tacking the edges prevents the cuffs from being too loose and they don't move around on you. I altered and modified the cuff pattern by using two pieces instead of a single cuff piece, adding a 2" allowance for the wrist area where the cuffs would turn back, and making them narrower. The height of the cuffs are 8 inches, reaching almost to the elbow. The inner/outer raw edges were blanket-stitched together as a single piece. More, later.
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Post by straekat on Dec 13, 2019 15:44:59 GMT -7
J P Ryans 1750 coat pattern, and the "Depp" coat instructions both describe how to sew roll-back/turn down cuffs onto the sleeves. Ryan's instructions may require being read a few times. If there are any problems understanding how to make them, a short youtube video featuring Henry Cooke making and sewing cuffs is useful. Cooke for those who aren't familiar with the name, is a Boston (Mass) area tailor-reenactor who has made museum quality reproductions for state and federal museums.
When you check out the video, check out the posters other youtube videos. Cooke is seen working on a waistcoat.
The size of the hood is something you might need to experiment with. It needs to be large enough to pull over the head, and preferably both sides close together at the front. The pdf file I posted earlier in the thread shows the sides being straight and the corners are angular. The bottom edge is straight (not rounded) and an be added to the neck opening without much problem. Center the rear hood seam witfh the center seam on the back. The rest is easy. I used two layers of wool for the hood for added warmth if the weather is particularly wet and windy.
The overlapping front coat panel is buttonholed on the upper corner of, and a single button. Hooks and eyes were also used for clothing fasteners, so what you use is a personal choice. I preferred not to use a buttonhole opening because the closure might be pulled out of shape. Instead I made a long tab using matching wool that runs along the top edge of the flap and buttonholed that instead. This leaves the button out of sight, and is less likely to catch and hold on something.
Sewing the coat together is relatively fast (1-2 days or a weekend) if you use a sewing machine, and leave the raw edges unbound.
If anyone decides to make a capote, let me know if you need additional help.
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