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Post by armando on Feb 24, 2020 6:33:35 GMT -7
I hope to start on making a Greatcoat from the pattern and advice from Gilgun's Tidings from the 18th century. My local Surplus has some 100percent wool WWII Hospital blankets that I'd hoped to use if you all think it would work. Since it is my first attempt, I am trying to do it (slightly) on the cheap so I don't end up with a bunch of cut-up expensive wool or blankets (maybe I make leggins from the extra).  Advice? Recommendations? Or would a Capote be an easier first project? |
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ewoaf
City-dweller
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Post by ewoaf on Feb 24, 2020 8:21:52 GMT -7
Might be the cheap way to go. You can always dye them with acid dye to clean up small stripes or colour variations. You'll need 2 if not 3. Hopefully they hold a raw edge.
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Feb 24, 2020 8:22:48 GMT -7
I hope to start on making a Greatcoat from the pattern and advice from Gilgun's Tidings from the 18th century. My local Surplus has some 100percent wool WWII Hospital blankets that I'd hoped to use if you all think it would work. Since it is my first attempt, I am trying to do it (slightly) on the cheap so I don't end up with a bunch of cut-up expensive wool or blankets (maybe I make leggins from the extra). Advice? Recommendations? Or would a Capote be an easier first project? Armando, My first event (almost a year ago to date) was on of the colder ones and I decided to make a capote but I am not a fan of hoods even with all of their advantages. I hadn't bought Beth Gilgun's book yet and looked up a pattern for a capote on the net as well as used the cape and collar parts from a hunting frock pattern. Since I tend to use my gear and clothing a bit before they are 100% complete my "Great coat/Justacorps" is not exactly finished. It lacks buttons and cuffs. It used up one complete Italian surplus blanket and a large scrap of another dark green blanket I had from another project but I didn't have enough for the cuffs so I left them off for the time being. Although they help keep it warm, I may have used the second cape to make the cuffs out of if I was going to do it all over again. If you have the time, I would hand stitch it. You'll hate it at first but with a larger project like this you can really learn a lot about that particular skill. Good luck on the project!! |
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Post by Black Hand on Feb 24, 2020 10:58:24 GMT -7
My Greatcoat is fantastic - got it from a friend and it was made by Beth Gilgun herself. I even wear it in real life. My vote is Greatcoat - not sure why they ever went out of style.
The coat is black wool lined with green wool. I'd suggest lining yours too.
You can always make a Capote too, but you'll need to figure out the who, what, where and when you are for it to be period correct....
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Post by armando on Feb 24, 2020 11:25:23 GMT -7
I'd love to see a picture of your greatcoat!
Is it an overly ambitious project for a guy just starting out? I've made quite a few leather items and simple things but nothing this big and with as complex a pattern.
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Post by Black Hand on Feb 24, 2020 12:13:25 GMT -7
In the general scheme, it would be a relatively simple to moderate sewing project. You'll never know if you can until you try and if it doesn't turn out, you can always alter it.
Since you aren't using expensive broadcloth, bearskin or duffle, you won't be out much cash if it goes seriously wrong. That said, make a muslin from cheap material first to check fit then cut blankets when you are satisfied.
I'll send pictures of my coat later...
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Post by brokennock on Feb 24, 2020 12:18:14 GMT -7
I'd love to see a picture of your greatcoat! Is it an overly ambitious project for a guy just starting out? I've made quite a few leather items and simple things but nothing this big and with as complex a pattern. Just go for it. What's the worst that could happen if you fail? Most of us learn as much or more from failure over success. If it turns out a disaster I'm sure you can cut it up and use the pieces for other things. Moccasin liners, or at least insoles, leggings, an insulated bag to carry your lunch (lol.) |
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Post by Black Hand on Feb 24, 2020 12:25:25 GMT -7
Just go for it. What's the worst that could happen if you fail? Most of us learn as much or more from failure over success. If it turns out a disaster I'm sure you can cut it up and use the pieces for other things. Moccasin liners, or at least insoles, leggings, an insulated bag to carry your lunch (lol.)  |
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Feb 24, 2020 16:27:49 GMT -7
I'd love to see a picture of your greatcoat! Is it an overly ambitious project for a guy just starting out? I've made quite a few leather items and simple things but nothing this big and with as complex a pattern. Just go for it. What's the worst that could happen if you fail? Most of us learn as much or more from failure over success. If it turns out a disaster I'm sure you can cut it up and use the pieces for other things. Moccasin liners, or at least insoles, leggings, an insulated bag to carry your lunch (lol.) I must agree with Nock, Armando. Although it’s not a bad idea to make one out of a lighter cloth I would cover that ground once and be be done!! As was said it won’t come out all that bad and the experience is priceless!! Later on, with better skill you may look at that same greatcoat and fix whatever errors you made the first time which in my opinion is a part of the lifestyle. Adapting, learning and reconfiguring as you grow in knowledge as well as experience with that particular skill set |
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Post by artificer on Feb 24, 2020 21:03:31 GMT -7
My Greatcoat is fantastic - got it from a friend and it was made by Beth Gilgun herself. I even wear it in real life. My vote is Greatcoat - not sure why they ever went out of style. The coat is black wool lined with green wool. I'd suggest lining yours too. You can always make a Capote too, but you'll need to figure out the who, what, where and when you are for it to be period correct....
I had a Capote w/hood many years ago. It was made from a then High Dollar Whitney blanket, however, the wind went right through it, so it was almost worthless. We did not know to wash it in hot water to tighten up the weave before making it. This may or may not be a problem depending on the blanket/s used, but it is something to take real care on before cutting the blanket/s for the pattern.
Gus
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Post by Black Hand on Feb 24, 2020 21:10:27 GMT -7
Surplus blankets get a wash in hot and a trip in the dryer to full. It helps to a greater or lesser degree, depending on the blanket.
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990 
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Post by Keith on Feb 24, 2020 21:43:29 GMT -7
I prefer a frock coat, though I do not wear this in the woods. In the woods I rely on my frock, a half-blanket & my blanket. For sleeping in winter I carry an extra wool waistcoat, a woolen shirt & a Monmouth cap in my blanket roll. Keith.   |
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Post by armando on Feb 28, 2020 6:32:48 GMT -7
OK guys, i got some WWII Navy Hospital blankets (2 of them should be enough) from local Surplus buddy.
Quick questions because I'm pretty brand new to textile sewing:
1) the pattern in Gilgun's has it laid out on a grid and counting the squares (1 square = 1 inch) and looking at the FRONT PIECE it seems to be widest at 30" and at its longest at 48". Am I reading that correctly?
2) the pattern is for size 38-40 but I'm more a 42-44 chest. Where do I add the inches to the pattern?
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ewoaf
City-dweller
Posts: 203
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Post by ewoaf on Feb 28, 2020 6:56:01 GMT -7
Where do I add the inches to the pattern? Wherever you need to. Definately start in the chest, make sure you have adequate seam allowances besides enough to go around you, plus extra needed to button. On each side of each bodice piece you'll gain 2" of room for every .25" added. 2 backs and 2 fronts = 8 sides. 8x.25 = 2 So you see it doesn't take much to upsize a garment. The other question you should be asking is how tall was the guy? Are you shorter or taller? You may need to lengthen the bodice, I always start in the small of the back. Adjust the bottom of the backs by adding or subtracting (or not) to raise or lower the waist line. Skew the fronts to match. Check the sleeve length. If you're taller and lengthened the bodice, you'll most likely want to add a bit to the sleeve. |
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