Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Mar 2, 2020 15:11:46 GMT -7
I do not have a permanent source for linen thread, I have purchased linen thread from wherever it was available at the time. Some came from a second hand shop, Irish linen thread on cards, pretty old. Some thread being sold off from a material supplies shop. An employee in a shoe makers in the UK sent me a bundle of heavy linen thread, & a friend of mine came across some reels of silk thread which he gifted to me. Keith.
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Post by artificer on Mar 2, 2020 15:23:27 GMT -7
Another question for those who have hand sewn cloth with linen thread, if you please.
I'm used to saddle stitching leather and for that one must have a "doubled" length of thread about 1 1/2 times the length of seam to be sewn. The length can sometimes go well beyond what even my long organtuan arms can stretch, but you just deal with the longer length of thread for the seam.
When hand sewing cloth, I realize you aren't using saddle stitching, but do you still cut the single thread about 1 1/2 times the length of the seam? Or do you use shorter threads?
Gus
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Mar 2, 2020 15:34:17 GMT -7
Hawk, What the “five cord” linen thread sold by Tandy rank as ? 40 ? Not Hawk, but do you mean the thread in the following link? www.tandyleather.com/en/product/unwaxed-linen-thread-naturalIf so, that is WAY too thick of thread to use for sewing cloth. Actually, that thick of thread is for sewing fairly thick to thick leather from say 7-9 oz or more. You can strip out one or two cords from a length of thread, re-twist it and use it on lighter weight leather, but it still will be too thick for cloth. IOW, that thread is for sewing leather and though I don't know what linen thread is best to buy for cloth, that thread is probably not what you need. Gus Thanks Gus!!
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Mar 2, 2020 15:47:03 GMT -7
Another question for those who have hand sewn cloth with linen thread, if you please. I'm used to saddle stitching leather and for that one must have a "doubled" length of thread about 1 1/2 times the length of seam to be sewn. The length can sometimes go well beyond what even my long organtuan arms can stretch, but you just deal with the longer length of thread for the seam. When hand sewing cloth, I realize you aren't using saddle stitching, but do you still cut the single thread about 1 1/2 times the length of the seam? Or do you use shorter threads? Gus I use a length of thread that is easy to work with Gus, not too short but not too long either. If I run out of thread, I simply tie it off & start again with new thread from where I left off. I found that long lengths of thread tend to get knotted & caught up on something or other, less so when waxed, but still awkward to use. Keith.
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Post by Black Hand on Mar 2, 2020 16:08:12 GMT -7
Another question for those who have hand sewn cloth with linen thread, if you please. I'm used to saddle stitching leather and for that one must have a "doubled" length of thread about 1 1/2 times the length of seam to be sewn. The length can sometimes go well beyond what even my long organtuan arms can stretch, but you just deal with the longer length of thread for the seam. When hand sewing cloth, I realize you aren't using saddle stitching, but do you still cut the single thread about 1 1/2 times the length of the seam? Or do you use shorter threads? Gus I will spool off about an arm-span (2-3 feet), wax well and thread onto the needle. If I run out of thread, I will either do a couple back stitches and start a new thread or tie the new thread to the tail of the old thread and continue. I will also wax the existing thread as needed while sewing - sewing rough wool, the thread may need more rewaxing as the thread will get scraggly otherwise (works against you, a bit like Velcro). Sewing with a very long thread is just asking for trouble...
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ewoaf
City-dweller
Posts: 203
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Post by ewoaf on Mar 2, 2020 21:27:40 GMT -7
You'll want a heavy thread to sew broadcloth or duffel, or whatever you choose to sew your coat. About a 50 should be plenty. You'll use a finer one on the lining appropriate to whatever you chose for that, so possibly an 80. On the wool, aim for at least 10 back stitches per inch. 12 if you can on the lining. Fell the seams.
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Post by artificer on Mar 2, 2020 23:19:56 GMT -7
Keith and Blackhand,
Thanks for the tips on the length of thread to use for hand sewing! I appreciate it very much.
Gus
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Post by artificer on Mar 2, 2020 23:31:05 GMT -7
OK, more questions if you all please?
I'm a little confused as to the difference between "ply" and "cord" in descriptions of linen thread. Do they use the term "ply" or "plys" (multiple) for linen thread for sewing cloth and cord/cords for linen thread for sewing leather to distinguish how thick/large the thread is for sewing leather?
Do you use different size linen thread for shirts vs waist coats vs breeches/trousers as the linen may be thicker for waist coats and trousers vs shirts? I mean shirts worn under the waist coat and not Hunting Shirts worn on the outside.
It sounds like you all are talking about thicker thread for say wool cloth used for great coats and match coats, is that true?
Gus
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Post by Black Hand on Mar 3, 2020 5:27:01 GMT -7
I used the same thread when sewing wool - single thickness for lighter cloth and doubled for heavy cloth. I save my heavier linen for leather, moccasins, leather canteens and sewing on buttons.
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ewoaf
City-dweller
Posts: 203
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Post by ewoaf on Mar 3, 2020 5:47:44 GMT -7
OK, more questions if you all please? I'm a little confused as to the difference between "ply" and "cord" in descriptions of linen thread. Do they use the term "ply" or "plys" (multiple) for linen thread for sewing cloth and cord/cords for linen thread for sewing leather to distinguish how thick/large the thread is for sewing leather? Do you use different size linen thread for shirts vs waist coats vs breeches/trousers as the linen may be thicker for waist coats and trousers vs shirts? I mean shirts worn under the waist coat and not Hunting Shirts worn on the outside. It sounds like you all are talking about thicker thread for say wool cloth used for great coats and match coats, is that true? Gus Use single thickness thread appropriate to the weight of the fabric. If you're unsure, pull a thread from the fabric and get something like that.
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Post by Black Hand on Mar 3, 2020 7:49:23 GMT -7
Use single thickness thread appropriate to the weight of the fabric. If you're unsure, pull a thread from the fabric and get something like that. Excellent tip!
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Post by artificer on Mar 3, 2020 14:31:08 GMT -7
It sounds like you all are talking about thicker thread for say wool cloth used for great coats and match coats, is that true? Gus Use single thickness thread appropriate to the weight of the fabric. If you're unsure, pull a thread from the fabric and get something like that. Great Tip indeed! Thank you. Gus
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