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Post by armando on Mar 2, 2020 7:07:03 GMT -7
Looking to sew together a Greatcoat from some old surplus blankets and looking for strong linen thread. What is a good source? How do you Wax this thread? What kind of needle to use?
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Post by hawkeyes on Mar 2, 2020 7:37:02 GMT -7
I have purchased thread from William Booth and also Crazy Crow who carries Fil Au Chinois, our local fabric store also sells linen thread so yours may be a good place to check. I like a size 40 for most projects, size 100 for more delicate projects like beading and some clothing. Simple waxing is done with beeswax held in the hand with light finger pressure on the thread as its pulled across the wax.
Concerning sizes I really couldn't say with certainty, not really something I've gave much thought to! Personally just use what I feel appropriate for the project and thread size. Glovers needles are handy for leather projects but not required if you use an awl. Steel needles are available from the places mentioned above or can be made from bone if you desire.
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Post by Black Hand on Mar 2, 2020 7:48:38 GMT -7
Looking to sew together a Greatcoat from some old surplus blankets and looking for strong linen thread. What is a good source? How do you Wax this thread? What kind of needle to use? The key is small, tighteven stitches. You should find linen thread at your local craft store, fabric store or even Amazon along with stores catering to our hobby. Avoid the urge to use thick thread. It has its use, but sewing clothing is not one of them. |
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ewoaf
City-dweller
Posts: 203
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Post by ewoaf on Mar 2, 2020 7:58:33 GMT -7
Burnley & Trowbridge, renaissance fabrics, etsy, William booth Draper
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Post by hawkeyes on Mar 2, 2020 8:03:36 GMT -7
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Post by brokennock on Mar 2, 2020 8:12:35 GMT -7
Looking to sew together a Greatcoat from some old surplus blankets and looking for strong linen thread. What is a good source? How do you Wax this thread? What kind of needle to use? Over on the ALR forum, in the accoutrements section, a member by the moniker "the cap gun kid" who is formerly known as cordwainer, has a series of topics titled "everyone a cobbler," one of which had a lot of info on waxing linen thread. I am not 100% certain of the same advice applies when sewing fabric, but worth checking out. His real name is Greg Geiger and he has written a few very good historical fiction books which I have reviewed in the past. He is very open to answering questions and approachable by private message. |
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Post by brokennock on Mar 2, 2020 8:16:44 GMT -7
One question I've always had concerning sewing fabric, seeing as I've only worked with leather (for the reason concerning this question), with a running stitch, how does one keep the fabric from just sliding down the thread like a curtain on a rod, and thus just bunching up in one or more places? When I bring the two ends of my thread through the same hole from opposite sides with leather, this obviously can't happen.
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Post by Black Hand on Mar 2, 2020 9:06:22 GMT -7
Depends on your stitch, fabric and waxing. A saddle-stitch works great for leather, but isn't that great for fabric. I use a running stitch to create my gathers and a back-stitch for sewing most seams on clothing. A whip-stitch is used for the rolled hem at the front neck opening of shirts.
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Post by artificer on Mar 2, 2020 9:21:42 GMT -7
Like Brokennock, I have only ever used linen thread to sew leather. So I guess my dumb question is, "Do you still wax linen thread with beeswax to sew in cloth? If sew, (pun intended) does one washing get rid of the beeswax on the completed garment/sewing project?
Gus
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Post by Black Hand on Mar 2, 2020 9:33:23 GMT -7
Yes, you wax - reduces friction and increases durability of the tread while sewing. And you don't worry about removing the wax as the amount is minimal. minuteman.boards.net/thread/103/mens-shirtFully handsewn with waxed linen thread. |
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Mar 2, 2020 12:44:00 GMT -7
I have purchased thread from William Booth and also Crazy Crow who carries Fil Au Chinois, our local fabric store also sells linen thread so yours may be a good place to check. I like a size 40 for most projects, size 100 for more delicate projects like beading and some clothing. Simple waxing is done with beeswax held in the hand with light finger pressure on the thread as its pulled across the wax. Concerning sizes I really couldn't say with certainty, not really something I've gave much thought to! Personally just use what I feel appropriate for the project and thread size. Glovers needles are handy for leather projects but not required if you use an awl. Steel needles are available from the places mentioned above or can be made from bone if you desire. Hawk, What the “five cord” linen thread sold by Tandy rank as ? 40 ? |
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Post by hawkeyes on Mar 2, 2020 13:39:15 GMT -7
One question I've always had concerning sewing fabric, seeing as I've only worked with leather (for the reason concerning this question), with a running stitch, how does one keep the fabric from just sliding down the thread like a curtain on a rod, and thus just bunching up in one or more places? When I bring the two ends of my thread through the same hole from opposite sides with leather, this obviously can't happen. In short runs when you have greater distance between stitching it can be a problem. Keeping the intervals between stitching close and the thread well waxed you shouldn't have any problems. |
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Post by hawkeyes on Mar 2, 2020 13:40:28 GMT -7
I have purchased thread from William Booth and also Crazy Crow who carries Fil Au Chinois, our local fabric store also sells linen thread so yours may be a good place to check. I like a size 40 for most projects, size 100 for more delicate projects like beading and some clothing. Simple waxing is done with beeswax held in the hand with light finger pressure on the thread as its pulled across the wax. Concerning sizes I really couldn't say with certainty, not really something I've gave much thought to! Personally just use what I feel appropriate for the project and thread size. Glovers needles are handy for leather projects but not required if you use an awl. Steel needles are available from the places mentioned above or can be made from bone if you desire. Hawk, What the “five cord” linen thread sold by Tandy rank as ? 40 ? Couldn't tell you, I never buy from them as we have none around. The linen thread I use is the French offering from CC and what my local shop sells which is what I'd say is a light/ medium thickness. |
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Post by artificer on Mar 2, 2020 14:47:00 GMT -7
I have purchased thread from William Booth and also Crazy Crow who carries Fil Au Chinois, our local fabric store also sells linen thread so yours may be a good place to check. I like a size 40 for most projects, size 100 for more delicate projects like beading and some clothing. Simple waxing is done with beeswax held in the hand with light finger pressure on the thread as its pulled across the wax. Concerning sizes I really couldn't say with certainty, not really something I've gave much thought to! Personally just use what I feel appropriate for the project and thread size. Glovers needles are handy for leather projects but not required if you use an awl. Steel needles are available from the places mentioned above or can be made from bone if you desire. Hawk, What the “five cord” linen thread sold by Tandy rank as ? 40 ? Not Hawk, but do you mean the thread in the following link? www.tandyleather.com/en/product/unwaxed-linen-thread-naturalIf so, that is WAY too thick of thread to use for sewing cloth. Actually, that thick of thread is for sewing fairly thick to thick leather from say 7-9 oz or more. You can strip out one or two cords from a length of thread, re-twist it and use it on lighter weight leather, but it still will be too thick for cloth. IOW, that thread is for sewing leather and though I don't know what linen thread is best to buy for cloth, that thread is probably not what you need. Gus |
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Post by artificer on Mar 2, 2020 14:58:12 GMT -7
From William Booth Draper, "To understand linen thread it is important to know the larger the first number the finer the linen thread. The second number indicates that all our linen threads are two or three ply." Draper's threads seem to go from 35 to 50 with nothing in between, so the 40 that Hawk recommends would have to come from a different source. . wmboothdraper.com/P.S. Thanks to Blackhand for the advice that linen thread needs waxing for sewing cloth. Gus |
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