Post by hawkeyes on Apr 8, 2020 7:43:29 GMT -7
All, wanted to undertake a task that I find fitting for all individuals involved in living history. As well, wanted this project to be easily accomplished by anyone of any skill level with nothing more than commonly accessible handtools.
I personally feel the knife like the rifle and tomahawk are vastly important to the woodsman, and that said a high quality blade is an absolute for a good historical interpretation. Now I am always willing to support the craftsman of the hobby and this is no take away from them. However having a family to support often times spending $$$ on accoutrements isn't an option. This is where a DIY mindset must take over along with research to produce quality reproductions.
Now rather than regurgitating information on what a HC knife is, with Keith's permission I've included hyperlinks/ image's to and from the Woodsrunners diary. His information is invaluable, well thought and researched which is far better than I personally could compile and present. Indeed it's only fitting that I thank him for freely offering the use of his information to myself and us all.
woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2010/08/woodsrunners-knives.html?m=1
woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/02/more-on-period-knives.html?m=1
Lets begin!
First is blade selection, while there are many other routes for reproducing a blade by far the easiest method would be to procure a quality blade blank and work from there. However that may not be the most plausible option for some due to shipping access or internet availability. This is why I feel the typical Old Hickory knife becomes a great find. These blades are very well made from quality 1075 HCS and hardened to about 60 HRC which I've verified on multiple blades, all have been consistent. These blades seem to show up everywhere from antique shops, flea markets, in kitchen drawers and are based on centuries old designs. One particular blade profile is very appealing and that is the cooks knife which has a curved spine that very much resembles a French trade knife in profile, see images below.
Here is the project blade fresh for modification.
The first step is to remove the brass rivets that are simply drilled and removed via a hand drill. Take care not to damage the walnut scales as they will serve as a template for the new scales.
Once the scales are removed you have a fresh blank ready for some intense elbow grease. Word of warning, the next step will require patience and be prepared to walk away for a break and return later. I will attest forging a fresh blade from raw steel is much easier than what we are about to do as the material isn't hardened. However, not everyone has the skill or availability to a forge for such work, thus we are here. Yet the fruit is worth the effort, and you absolutely will become a professional filer by the projects end, and in it's own right that is a valuable skill!
Only two files are used for this process, a coarse half round and fine mill. I recommend using files over 8" with handles. These 1075 blanks are stamped, therefore we have stamp marks that must be removed. I highly recommend taping the edge or dulling it down. I do both for safety as you inevitably will slip while working the blade. A bench vise is not necessarily needed to accomplish this task, but certainly will make life easier. If there is no access to a vise the tang can easily be clamped to a solid worktable or even a deck railing for the filing process.
Now draw filing begins, this again is a tedious endeavor as the blade is already hardened and tempered. The task is absolutely not impossible but will seem so. This is where patience is key. Work slowly, applying even pressure to the blade but not to much. The blade being tempered will flex to an extent so indeed exercise caution. The blade will take more flex than is required but still be mindful. This flex is a sign of a good temper. Why not use powertools to remove the stampings? One can, that is fine but not everyone has access to such devices. If you do and know what you are doing that is up to the individual. The big problem I have with power sanders and such is we absolutely want to keep our good hardened blade and it's temper, which with overheating will rapidly suck the life from the blade quicker than the Mrs. Slow, patience and consistency are the key, walk away and come back when you are feeling fatigued. It took me approximately two hours a side to remove the factory stampings and obtain a uniform finish with the mill file. You can also file in a finger well into the back of the blade which isn't required. Once completed I like to polish the blade with pumice or rottenstone, but red coarse emery cloth is acceptable.
The next step is forcing a patina on the blade. I personally dislike a shiny blade so this is optional. My method for this is simple... I heated vinegar on the wood stove and soaked the blade for an hour. The blade will take on a nice grey tone after the soot from the oxidation process is removed. Now, I simply polished the blade with baking soda which also kills any residual oxidation. The result is what you see in the image.
Time to make scales! Sugar tree curl, walnut, oak, ash, cherry... Whatever you desire can be used. My recommendation is to find a block that can be used in one piece, gluing isn't recommended. I took a trip to my cherry pile and found a piece I split from a log. Now, this is where you'll want the factory walnut scale to use as a template. Not needed however, but it makes a great reference. Simply trace your scale outline and proceed to cut your scale block with a coping saw. Once you have your scale block cut I like to transfer my pin holes to the scale block by clamping the blade to the scale. Then lightly center punch the two holes but no drilling yet.
Now we want to find the center of the scale block and mark the back of the tang in relation to how far we will cut the halfting slot. I also mark the front and back of the block which will help us cut a straight line. Once we are ready to cut a regular handsaw is used to cut our slot for halfting the blade. This will almost indefinitely cut a perfect slot for the thickness of our blade, this will likely be the case 90% of the time. Worth noting though, some saws do indeed have more tooth set than others and results can vary when cutting your slot.
Once you have your slot cut it's time to drill those pin holes. Once again align your blade into the scales and clamp the assembly. I personally use a 1/8" bit as I have iron nails that I use for pins. With the pieces clamped simply drill your pin holes. With everything properly aligned you should hit the predrilled factory holes perfectly, which will only enlrage the holes by a few thousandths. I also add a third pin, mark and drill that as well. The tang not being hardened it will drill with ease. Once your clearance holes are drilled test fit your pins and move to shaping your scales as you desire.
When you have shaped the scales to your liking forgo final finishing, this will be accomplished once pinning is complete. I like to use cutlers resin which is a HC pine resin/ beeswax mixture. Essentially this is what's used to halft points to arrows (image below) and it's extremely strong once cured. This is the last batch I made and it does take some trial and error to make correctly so a good... cough, cough 30 min. epoxy can be used.
Resin or epoxy applied time to pin. Word of caution, be very careful not to use excessive force while setting your pins. Scales are very easy to split, did it once on a set I made for this blade and had to start over. Cut your pins so they extend literally a 16th of an inch up above the scales. It is important to slightly countersink the pin holes on the scales, both sides. This can be easily accomplished with the tip of a knife blade or larger drill bit turned by hand. This step will help prevent splitting the scales when you set the pins. Place the glued knife assembly on a hard, flat surface. Here you will proceed to roll the ends of the pins by "dancing" around the exposed ends. Use enough force to move the soft iron and set it into the countersink. Alternatively move to both sides of the pin as you go. It doesn't take much to swell the pins and lock everything together. You can overdo it easily so less force is recommended, work slowly.
Now allow your resin or epoxy to set and apply your final finishing! Congratulations, you now have a very well made blade that will indeed serve you well in your historical, hunting or collecting endeavors! I absolutely recommend making yourself a nice center seam sheath/ liner from heavy leather or rawhide. Here are the completed images of my blade and center seam sheath sewn with heavy linen thread and coated with beeswax.
With a little work and patience a quality blade can be had that you'll certainly be proud to carry. Best regards to you all in all endeavours.
I personally feel the knife like the rifle and tomahawk are vastly important to the woodsman, and that said a high quality blade is an absolute for a good historical interpretation. Now I am always willing to support the craftsman of the hobby and this is no take away from them. However having a family to support often times spending $$$ on accoutrements isn't an option. This is where a DIY mindset must take over along with research to produce quality reproductions.
Now rather than regurgitating information on what a HC knife is, with Keith's permission I've included hyperlinks/ image's to and from the Woodsrunners diary. His information is invaluable, well thought and researched which is far better than I personally could compile and present. Indeed it's only fitting that I thank him for freely offering the use of his information to myself and us all.
woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2010/08/woodsrunners-knives.html?m=1
woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/02/more-on-period-knives.html?m=1
Lets begin!
First is blade selection, while there are many other routes for reproducing a blade by far the easiest method would be to procure a quality blade blank and work from there. However that may not be the most plausible option for some due to shipping access or internet availability. This is why I feel the typical Old Hickory knife becomes a great find. These blades are very well made from quality 1075 HCS and hardened to about 60 HRC which I've verified on multiple blades, all have been consistent. These blades seem to show up everywhere from antique shops, flea markets, in kitchen drawers and are based on centuries old designs. One particular blade profile is very appealing and that is the cooks knife which has a curved spine that very much resembles a French trade knife in profile, see images below.
Here is the project blade fresh for modification.
The first step is to remove the brass rivets that are simply drilled and removed via a hand drill. Take care not to damage the walnut scales as they will serve as a template for the new scales.
Once the scales are removed you have a fresh blank ready for some intense elbow grease. Word of warning, the next step will require patience and be prepared to walk away for a break and return later. I will attest forging a fresh blade from raw steel is much easier than what we are about to do as the material isn't hardened. However, not everyone has the skill or availability to a forge for such work, thus we are here. Yet the fruit is worth the effort, and you absolutely will become a professional filer by the projects end, and in it's own right that is a valuable skill!
Only two files are used for this process, a coarse half round and fine mill. I recommend using files over 8" with handles. These 1075 blanks are stamped, therefore we have stamp marks that must be removed. I highly recommend taping the edge or dulling it down. I do both for safety as you inevitably will slip while working the blade. A bench vise is not necessarily needed to accomplish this task, but certainly will make life easier. If there is no access to a vise the tang can easily be clamped to a solid worktable or even a deck railing for the filing process.
Now draw filing begins, this again is a tedious endeavor as the blade is already hardened and tempered. The task is absolutely not impossible but will seem so. This is where patience is key. Work slowly, applying even pressure to the blade but not to much. The blade being tempered will flex to an extent so indeed exercise caution. The blade will take more flex than is required but still be mindful. This flex is a sign of a good temper. Why not use powertools to remove the stampings? One can, that is fine but not everyone has access to such devices. If you do and know what you are doing that is up to the individual. The big problem I have with power sanders and such is we absolutely want to keep our good hardened blade and it's temper, which with overheating will rapidly suck the life from the blade quicker than the Mrs. Slow, patience and consistency are the key, walk away and come back when you are feeling fatigued. It took me approximately two hours a side to remove the factory stampings and obtain a uniform finish with the mill file. You can also file in a finger well into the back of the blade which isn't required. Once completed I like to polish the blade with pumice or rottenstone, but red coarse emery cloth is acceptable.
The next step is forcing a patina on the blade. I personally dislike a shiny blade so this is optional. My method for this is simple... I heated vinegar on the wood stove and soaked the blade for an hour. The blade will take on a nice grey tone after the soot from the oxidation process is removed. Now, I simply polished the blade with baking soda which also kills any residual oxidation. The result is what you see in the image.
Time to make scales! Sugar tree curl, walnut, oak, ash, cherry... Whatever you desire can be used. My recommendation is to find a block that can be used in one piece, gluing isn't recommended. I took a trip to my cherry pile and found a piece I split from a log. Now, this is where you'll want the factory walnut scale to use as a template. Not needed however, but it makes a great reference. Simply trace your scale outline and proceed to cut your scale block with a coping saw. Once you have your scale block cut I like to transfer my pin holes to the scale block by clamping the blade to the scale. Then lightly center punch the two holes but no drilling yet.
Now we want to find the center of the scale block and mark the back of the tang in relation to how far we will cut the halfting slot. I also mark the front and back of the block which will help us cut a straight line. Once we are ready to cut a regular handsaw is used to cut our slot for halfting the blade. This will almost indefinitely cut a perfect slot for the thickness of our blade, this will likely be the case 90% of the time. Worth noting though, some saws do indeed have more tooth set than others and results can vary when cutting your slot.
Once you have your slot cut it's time to drill those pin holes. Once again align your blade into the scales and clamp the assembly. I personally use a 1/8" bit as I have iron nails that I use for pins. With the pieces clamped simply drill your pin holes. With everything properly aligned you should hit the predrilled factory holes perfectly, which will only enlrage the holes by a few thousandths. I also add a third pin, mark and drill that as well. The tang not being hardened it will drill with ease. Once your clearance holes are drilled test fit your pins and move to shaping your scales as you desire.
When you have shaped the scales to your liking forgo final finishing, this will be accomplished once pinning is complete. I like to use cutlers resin which is a HC pine resin/ beeswax mixture. Essentially this is what's used to halft points to arrows (image below) and it's extremely strong once cured. This is the last batch I made and it does take some trial and error to make correctly so a good... cough, cough 30 min. epoxy can be used.
Resin or epoxy applied time to pin. Word of caution, be very careful not to use excessive force while setting your pins. Scales are very easy to split, did it once on a set I made for this blade and had to start over. Cut your pins so they extend literally a 16th of an inch up above the scales. It is important to slightly countersink the pin holes on the scales, both sides. This can be easily accomplished with the tip of a knife blade or larger drill bit turned by hand. This step will help prevent splitting the scales when you set the pins. Place the glued knife assembly on a hard, flat surface. Here you will proceed to roll the ends of the pins by "dancing" around the exposed ends. Use enough force to move the soft iron and set it into the countersink. Alternatively move to both sides of the pin as you go. It doesn't take much to swell the pins and lock everything together. You can overdo it easily so less force is recommended, work slowly.
Now allow your resin or epoxy to set and apply your final finishing! Congratulations, you now have a very well made blade that will indeed serve you well in your historical, hunting or collecting endeavors! I absolutely recommend making yourself a nice center seam sheath/ liner from heavy leather or rawhide. Here are the completed images of my blade and center seam sheath sewn with heavy linen thread and coated with beeswax.
With a little work and patience a quality blade can be had that you'll certainly be proud to carry. Best regards to you all in all endeavours.
