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Post by brokennock on Aug 19, 2020 12:12:57 GMT -7
This is mentioned in another topic and will clutter that topic too much if discussed further there. I have racked my brain to try and figure out a better way to do this, also had private message discussions with folks more knowledgeable than me on the subject.
When making a shot pouch that is sewn inside out and then turned, with a center divider, the edges of the center divider do not end up sandwiched between front and rear panels, they wind up with the front panel edge behind the divider, pulling the front pocket tight.
Some picture examples using colored felt, red is the front panel, blue is the back panel, and yellow is the divider. If we stack our pieces like so, and stitch them together, then, turn the bag rightside out, it looks correct at first, the divider is between the front and rear panels. But, the ends or side edges of the pieces are in the wrong place, like so, here it is on a real bag, this makes the front section tighter than it should be.
The only solution I've come up with, is to sew one edge of the center panel in like this, and stitch this edge of the bag. the front and back panels are smooth side to smooth side. Then, fold the front and back panels over the divider like they will be on the finished bag and fold and tuck the edges the way they are supposed to be, like this.
This now means stitching this from inside the front and rear section of the bag. And, leaving the center divider unsewn across the bottom. I have done this on one bag a few years ago, it is a serious pain in the........ I do not see any other way to accomplish this. And I certainly don't see any way to do this and punch my holes as I stitch.
What I would really like to do is cut my center divider slightly wide and fold the edge over on both sides and stitch it between the front and rear panels so the eposed edge of the divider between the front and rear is rolled instead of a raw edge.
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Post by hawkeyes on Aug 19, 2020 17:13:23 GMT -7
Fold the edges of the center divider (yellow) towards the inside. You'll have to allow for some extra material for the seam edge. It will be doubled up, however you will get the results your looking for concerning the orientation of the divider. You can also iron the seam down before sewing which will really hold it down. Then sew close to the edge. I know this sounds confusing... I'm sorry! Play with the felt and you'll visually see what I'm trying to explain.
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Post by Black Hand on Aug 19, 2020 20:23:17 GMT -7
This may be a silly question - but why a divider at all?
Or, if you must have a divider, why can't the seam(s) be on the outside like is shown for reproductions of the Lyman pouch?
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Post by brokennock on Aug 19, 2020 23:51:42 GMT -7
This may be a silly question - but why a divider at all? Or, if you must have a divider, why can't the seam(s) be on the outside like is shown for reproductions of the Lyman pouch? A divider will allow for putting stuff I don't use often, or hope not to use but should have if needed, spare flints, turnscrew, ball puller, worm, in the bottom of the rear section, covered with bulky stuff like wadding material and a tin of shot cartridges, then in front, more frequently used stuff needed for every shot, like a powder measure, and stuff for shooting round ball, bag-o- balls, tin of lube for if using wadding, and/or a strip of patch material. I don't like reaching into a bag and having to fumble for what I need, not do I like having to futz around putting things back in the bag a certain way. But, I don't like big bags either, so, a well organized small bag works well for me. Also I really don't like noise, like the noise a tin of lubed wads, or premade shot loads makes knocking against another tin or something else hard in the bag. A turned small bag seems to offer more volume than one that isn't turned. And, the stitching is better protected with no exposed edges to finish. |
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Post by hawkeyes on Aug 20, 2020 4:39:25 GMT -7
This may be a silly question - but why a divider at all? Or, if you must have a divider, why can't the seam(s) be on the outside like is shown for reproductions of the Lyman pouch? A divider will allow for putting stuff I don't use often, or hope not to use but should have if needed, spare flints, turnscrew, ball puller, worm, in the bottom of the rear section, covered with bulky stuff like wadding material and a tin of shot cartridges, then in front, more frequently used stuff needed for every shot, like a powder measure, and stuff for shooting round ball, bag-o- balls, tin of lube for if using wadding, and/or a strip of patch material. I don't like reaching into a bag and having to fumble for what I need, not do I like having to futz around putting things back in the bag a certain way. But, I don't like big bags either, so, a well organized small bag works well for me. Also I really don't like noise, like the noise a tin of lubed wads, or premade shot loads makes knocking against another tin or something else hard in the bag. A turned small bag seems to offer more volume than one that isn't turned. And, the stitching is better protected with no exposed edges to finish. I've found a divider more of a pain than anything in terms of organizing shooting accouterments, but that is just my own observations. Only thing I carry is a ball bag, shot bag, small tin of wads and a spare flint for quick replacement if needed. The rest of my shooting implements reside in my knapsack. |
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Post by Black Hand on Aug 20, 2020 4:42:18 GMT -7
I have a single bag without a divider. Infrequently used items sit in the bottom and items are segregated in bags as needed. Ball bag and patch tin sit on top of all. Works very well for me.
The bag is made from light leather lined with ticking - sewn then turned. I did add a small cloth pocket to the lining to hold my hunting tags that also contains my whistle and flint/steel.
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Post by spence on Aug 20, 2020 8:23:39 GMT -7
A double pouch is another possibility. I use one for my smoothbores which seem to need more stuff, and it works well for me.
Spence
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