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Post by paranger on Sept 2, 2020 7:13:45 GMT -7
The documentation for this large (7" blade) "split bone handle" English trade knife comes from a mid 18th c. inventory of John Lauren's estate, courtesy of Jim Mullin's blog, Of Sorts for Provincials (which is highly recommended reading, BTW). "3 doz. & 10 Clasp knives, 3 doz. box handles Butcher knives, 3 1/2 doz. Split bone handle do...6 doz Buck Spring Knives, 4 doz & a Small do. 2 doz. buck handle Knives, 2 Blades, 5 dozen Inlaid Small Knives, 2 Doz & 3 Black handle ditto, 13 Ivory Handle pen knives[p378] 1 doz. Large Buffler knives..." (Sept 12, 1747- Sept. 11, 1746-Oct. 31, 1755 page 376 [Appendix] Inventory of John Lauren's Estate )  The "split bone handle" implied a full tang configuration, which would have been a significant quality upgrade from the standard half width, partial tang of typical mid-century English trade knives. As such, I also elected to use 3 larger, 5/32" steel pins (rather than the standard 3/32"). Though handle shape was not specified, I elected to go with the classic "pistol grip" or "ball" handle found on many higher grade knives of the period. |
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990 
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Post by Keith on Sept 2, 2020 16:23:03 GMT -7
The documentation for this large (7" blade) "split bone handle" English trade knife comes from a mid 18th c. inventory of John Lauren's estate, courtesy of Jim Mullin's blog, Of Sorts for Provincials (which is highly recommended reading, BTW). "3 doz. & 10 Clasp knives, 3 doz. box handles Butcher knives, 3 1/2 doz. Split bone handle do...6 doz Buck Spring Knives, 4 doz & a Small do. 2 doz. buck handle Knives, 2 Blades, 5 dozen Inlaid Small Knives, 2 Doz & 3 Black handle ditto, 13 Ivory Handle pen knives[p378] 1 doz. Large Buffler knives..." (Sept 12, 1747- Sept. 11, 1746-Oct. 31, 1755 page 376 [Appendix] Inventory of John Lauren's Estate ) The "split bone handle" implied a full tang configuration, which would have been a significant quality upgrade from the standard half width, partial tang of typical mid-century English trade knives. As such, I also elected to use 3 larger, 5/32" steel pins (rather than the standard 3/32"). Though handle shape was not specified, I elected to go with the classic "pistol grip" or "ball" handle found on many higher grade knives of the period. Excellent, beautiful looking knife. Keith. |
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Post by paranger on Sept 2, 2020 16:37:16 GMT -7
Thanks, Keith - much appreciated!
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Post by hawkeyes on Sept 3, 2020 16:26:56 GMT -7
Job well done, this blade to me looks like its dying to be a slicer. Very much like the ball end bone scales.
Did you peen those pins over? Can't really tell. Anytime I'm rolling the pins over to set on bone I'm always nervous!
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Post by paranger on Sept 3, 2020 16:39:03 GMT -7
Job well done, this blade to me looks like its dying to be a slicer. Very much like the ball end bone scales. Did you peen those pins over? Can't really tell. Anytime I'm rolling the pins over to set on bone I'm always nervous! Peening makes me nervous, too. I have developed a 21st century hack (shh: don't tell). I keep the pins long and grind them with a bench grinder. When the pin gets almost red hot, it sort of mushrooms as if peened. Then I clean it up and file/ sand it flush. The danger is grinding it too close and gouging the grips, so I guess there is a bit of a trade-off... |
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Post by Black Hand on Sept 6, 2020 15:06:32 GMT -7
It shouldn't take much peening to hold a pin in place. What I do (keep in mind I've not done this with bone grips, so all bets might be off) is slightly countersink the holes in the handle, peen just enough to fill the countersink and file flush. It couldn't hurt to anneal the steel pin material to soften it before peening and use multiple light hammer-blows to gently spread the material. The biggest mistake I make is leaving the pin material too long...
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Post by artificer on Sept 15, 2020 23:42:48 GMT -7
Hi Pararanger,
NICE Knife!
I thought I was being super careful one time when I used "split" deer antler for a full tang knife and also countersunk the ends of the holes on each side of the grip. I used a lead Babbitt to support one side while I carefully tapped the other to peen out the end. Wound up cracking it badly, but at least I saved it with clear epoxy.
They used bone for knife "scales' and other things so often in the 18th century that I wonder if they boiled the bone pieces to soften them after drilling and countersinking the holes and before peening the pins? I imagine this would be done before final shaping of the scales and then they filed the scales and pins to fit. I have never been able to document that, though and frankly have been to scared to risk screwing up good pieces of bone or antler by trying it.
Gus
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Post by paranger on Sept 16, 2020 3:32:25 GMT -7
Gus,
While of course I don't KNOW (I have yet to come across a period description of the process), that sounds logical enough to me.
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