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Post by paranger on Oct 26, 2020 8:17:58 GMT -7
I just picked up this 17th / early 18th c. English sheepsfoot for my "knife library" with the thought that I might reproduce it at some point.  The bolster is pewter, and the whittle tang is fixed in what looks to me like an English walnut handle. Blade length is just over 6". Provenance included an old collector's tag dated 1968 referencing acquisition from an unspecified museum in Southern England. I have not been able to identify the cutler's mark as yet (any assistance is more than welcome) which appears to be a crown over small cross (or possibly fleur-de-lis) over a "winged" X.  animate emojis |
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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 26, 2020 11:48:49 GMT -7
Fine piece, I needs it...
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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 26, 2020 14:32:14 GMT -7
Can you give the over dimensions? Blade thickness by chance? I like sheepsfoot blades, very practical blade. I'd very much like to give this a go.
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Post by paranger on Oct 26, 2020 15:26:44 GMT -7
Can you give the over dimensions? Blade thickness by chance? I like sheepsfoot blades, very practical blade. I'd very much like to give this a go. I would say spine thickness is about 1/16", with a full flat grind. Really quite thin and light with some flex to it, but less than my 1095 blades of similar thickness. I will get you a more precise length and width when I get home. Come to think of it, I could do a blade tracing and make a paper template to send you, if you like. I have found that technique useful in working with bladesmiths on a bench copy. |
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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 26, 2020 16:55:03 GMT -7
Can you give the over dimensions? Blade thickness by chance? I like sheepsfoot blades, very practical blade. I'd very much like to give this a go. I would say spine thickness is about 1/16", with a full flat grind. Really quite thin and light with some flex to it, but less than my 1095 blades of similar thickness. I will get you a more precise length and width when I get home. Come to think of it, I could do a blade tracing and make a paper template to send you, if you like. I have found that technique useful in working with bladesmiths on a bench copy. I figured that blade would be rather thin and have some flex to it. Excellent, if that is easier for you to do feel free to send me an email of that template, I'd very much appreciate that. |
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Post by paranger on Oct 26, 2020 17:50:43 GMT -7
Hawkeyes, the blade comes in at exactly 1 inch wide and 6 inches long along the cutting edge. I will make you a template so you can get the angles right as well.
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990 
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Post by Keith on Oct 28, 2020 0:09:46 GMT -7
Very nice, good find.
Keith.
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Post by artificer on Oct 29, 2020 8:44:16 GMT -7
Pararanger,
VERY Interesting piece and thanks for showing it !! I had no idea these went back that far and quite pleased to see it.
Did the tradition of Sheep's Foot knives truly come from snapping off table knives so they could not be used in anger against other guests or worse, the host? I know these had a long tradition for common sailors, so they would be less likely to use them against others.
In 1976 I purchased some different knife blade blanks with which to make some knives myself. One blank from Indian Ridge Traders had a 4 inch blade about 3/4" wide and was square cut on the end. I bought it with the intention of making a patch knife. However, when it came it was only 1/16" thick and frankly I was worried it was so thin and about grinding both sides of the blade without messing up the temper. The only grinder I had at the time was a home made snag grinder. I slowly and carefully ground it while dunking it often in water, but decided only to hollow grind one side. I didn't know Sheep's foot tips were correct for "land" use back then, but it seemed the only natural way to form the tip. OMG, that was one SCARY sharp knife and as sharp or sharper than many razors folks were converting back then to use as a patch knife. When placed flat side down on a rifle muzzle, one really had to be careful using it as it could get away from you even when cutting rather thick pillow ticking patching. I used a piece of curly maple to make scales for the handle. I used a THICK welt on the scabbard to keep the edge from sawing through the leather or stiches every time I pulled it out and returned it to the scabbard. Long story a bit shorter, a good friend admired it so much, I gave it to him and never made another. Just too much work on that rustic snag grinder.
Gus
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Post by paranger on Oct 29, 2020 9:47:55 GMT -7
Gus,
Sounds like you were ahead of your time as far as the hobby goes...
Like Hawkeyes, I have found the sheepsfoot to be a very practical utility knife. And yes, they were apparently quite common in our period (and not just as a sailor's knife), though perhaps less so after, say, 1750.
I am not sure about the broken tip story, but I believe there were bans on "pointy" knives for the peasantry previously in English history.
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Post by paranger on Oct 29, 2020 10:06:26 GMT -7
BTW, I find it interesting that the sheepsfoot seems to be making a comeback of sorts. I had to laugh at one very prominent high-end maker who calls theirs a "reverse-tanto." Gotta love those marketing folks...
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Post by hawkeyes on Nov 1, 2020 4:49:47 GMT -7
I pulled some steel for this blade reproduction yesterday from my stock. Planning on annealing it and working out a blank today. We know how plans are subject to change, so hopefully that plan will stick. Tuned a smaller burner on my small forge yesterday so can't wait to give her a go!
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