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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 12, 2019 6:40:00 GMT -7
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Post by brokennock on Apr 14, 2019 0:03:42 GMT -7
Interesting, thank you for sharing that. My 3rd, successful, wood bow build was a copy of the very 1st one shown, that great Algonquin bow with the turtle and the faces on the necks. Loved it, but traded it to someone who was really desperate to have it and thrilled to actually get it. Have to make another one. |
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 14, 2019 4:34:17 GMT -7
Your welcome, I have multiple bows I've made from hickory, elm and osage that represent period examples. Actually finishing up another here in a few days with decorative effigy nock ends.
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 14, 2019 9:54:42 GMT -7
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 15, 2019 10:18:59 GMT -7
That is a good read, thanks for sharing that.
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 16, 2019 7:53:30 GMT -7
Those D-bows can be a little "shocky" to the hand due to the thin cross-section at the handle and that they bend throughout.
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Post by brokennock on Apr 16, 2019 18:18:51 GMT -7
Those D-bows can be a little "shocky" to the hand due to the thin cross-section at the handle and that they bend throughout. This is true. I think if I were to make another like it I would find a way to make the limb tips lighter. Might have to skip the effigy. |
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 17, 2019 12:16:20 GMT -7
Widen the limbs and make it longer. I have three true yew English warbows, (which are a completely different animal) but all have zero handshock.
My four osage woodland bows are all a tad bit longer and wider and I've found that removes a great deal of shock.
That and making sure your tiller is full compass on these shorter bows is extremely important. I also have a 48" plains style bow and was meticulous with the tillering, she came out as a wonderful bow to shoot.
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 18, 2019 7:35:29 GMT -7
One of my favorite bows made thus far, straight grained hickory with Eastern two fletched arrows and a traditional cattail quiver laced with hemp and a fitted hand woven hemp base sewn to close the bottom.  gif upload site |
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Post by brokennock on Apr 18, 2019 11:53:39 GMT -7
What are you using for a bow string?
I like that quiver. I have 2 reed basket quivers, they wind up only used to store arrows at home. I always come back to a leather side quiver for field use. The baskets are too noisy, even after padding/lining the top, and difficult to deal with when bending over.
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 18, 2019 14:57:03 GMT -7
I use B50 on my Native bows and fastflight on my Tudor period yew bows since they all have horn nocks. I've tried making a few strings from hemp but tracing good quality hemp for strings is a complicated endeavor. I will admit the above "modern materials" are were I give in. To me a bow is far more important than being completely HC I must say and risking a failure due to a string is not worth it to me. However I've made a few sinew strings and it took a monumental amount of time and a few trial and error attempts. I'm confident in my skillset to make it happen in a situation that would require a complete primitive build from the ground up.
That quiver isn't one I use for hunting, my hunting quivers are all made from a single raccoon hide. As you mentioned being stealthy with a basket or cane quiver is a persistent problem even when lining them.
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 18, 2019 15:08:57 GMT -7
This is my representation of a Lakota short bow, single piece of osage that's 48" and pulls 55lbs @ 22" with a brain tan handle wrap. Zero handshock and will sling a stick faster than lightning. Awaiting for my cane shafts to season to make a matched spine/ weight set of Lakota style arrows. You'll notice the limbs are a bit wider as is the handle area. I've found that lessons the shock.    |
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Post by brokennock on Apr 18, 2019 15:26:00 GMT -7
I've done the sinew string, wouldn't do it again, done rawhide too, more likely to do that again than sinew,but not likely. I like linen for natural material strings, but, I too concede on the string and use B50. Even on my fast flight safe glasses bows, I use B50, a few fps isn't worth the noise and other trade offs to me.
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 18, 2019 15:39:19 GMT -7
A few of the bows I've made:   From Left to right Covered in Bullsnake - 55# at 27" (Rawhide-backed Osage) Covered in Diamondback Rattlesnake - 50# at 27"(Sinew-backed Osage) Covered in Prairie Rattlesnake - 68# at 27" (Rawhide-backed Osage) All with commercial Flemish strings (Dacron) rated for draw-weight Bullsnake and Prairie Rattlesnake caught (and eaten) by me - nearly stepped on the Rattler. The bows are ~60" in length and the Prairie Rattler and Bullsnake skins are from single snakes. Arrows:  Dogwood shafts, Goose fletching, bandsaw blade tips and wrapped with sinew |
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 18, 2019 17:27:04 GMT -7
Nice stick slingers! I must say I'm not a fan of snake skin backing or any backed bows honestly unless they need it. Yet you should sell me one because a snake skinned backed bow I needs... Those are sharp and nicely done! Love the character for sure.
I wouldn't use FF on my lighter bows or anything without a reinforced nock. The yew warbows are just a completely different animal and being quiet isn't a concern. The sound a 120# warbow makes slinging a 1/2" tapered ash war arrow is one beautiful and intimidating sound!
I've never done a rawhide string, lord knows I've got enough so I may have to give one a go. I love building flinters, but bows are just so darn graceful and neat. Much more relaxing to build and less stress (besides tiller time).
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