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Post by armando on Aug 2, 2022 5:32:17 GMT -7
I'm doing my first flintlock pistol build (old Pedersoli kit from the 70's or 80's) and I finished browning the barrel last night
I used the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown (the barrel fit in the oven so I was able to do it warm) and after two passes, I was happy with the color. Following the directions, I applied some Barricade and let it sit over night.
I like the color but I don't like the texture. Unlike my other barrels (which I did NOT build and brown) the surface rust is still very chalky and dry. Looks nice but VERY rusty.
How do I get the barrel surface smooth and maintain the rust color? Did I just mess this up?
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ewoaf
City-dweller
Posts: 203
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Post by ewoaf on Aug 2, 2022 5:56:03 GMT -7
Fine steel wool man. Go over it with oil and then inspect and see if it needs another coat.
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Post by hawkeyes on Aug 2, 2022 6:00:05 GMT -7
Fine steel wool man. Go over it with oil and then inspect and see if it needs another coat. Sound advice here. Usually a good browning will take multiple applications depending on what your using. I prefer Mark Lee's solution when certain applications call for browning. Lots to be said about a good bright finish though! Keep in mind what your seeing is rust that is forced quickly. I would advise you make a solution of water and baking soda as a neutralizing agent because if you leave it unchecked problems will arise later once the barrel is dropped in the stock. Once I have the desired finish I like to card the extior portion of the metal with a coarse linen or canvas to burnish the finish then oil liberally. |
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Aug 2, 2022 6:14:48 GMT -7
What these guys said. Steel wool, canvas or heavy linen, oil. Knock back the scale to smooth with the wool, burnish with cloth, asses the need for more browning. A wipe with mineral spirits will give you an idea of the oiled color and be easier to remove if you want to brown again. When happy, neutralize and oil it up.
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Post by armando on Aug 2, 2022 8:20:41 GMT -7
What these guys said. Steel wool, canvas or heavy linen, oil. Knock back the scale to smooth with the wool, burnish with cloth, asses the need for more browning. A wipe with mineral spirits will give you an idea of the oiled color and be easier to remove if you want to brown again. When happy, neutralize and oil it up. Does the Barricade count as a neutralizer? |
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Post by hawkeyes on Aug 2, 2022 11:04:24 GMT -7
What these guys said. Steel wool, canvas or heavy linen, oil. Knock back the scale to smooth with the wool, burnish with cloth, asses the need for more browning. A wipe with mineral spirits will give you an idea of the oiled color and be easier to remove if you want to brown again. When happy, neutralize and oil it up. Does the Barricade count as a neutralizer? I'm not sure what the composition of that new fangled oil is. I'd say keep it simple and use soda and water. |
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Post by Black Hand on Aug 2, 2022 12:05:42 GMT -7
Plum brown isn't really a traditional rust brown which takes multiple applications over several days with carding in between coats. Rust brown takes longer but gives a "better" brown in my opinion. I used Plum brown on the Cabela 54 that was my first muzzleloader (gets loaned to folks that want to learn).
Neutralize with a paste of baking soda and water, rinse with hot water and apply oil. I don't use any of those new magic lubes/oils - they smell funny and I don't like the way they smell. Even 3 in 1 oil is offensive to my nose and Ballistol smells like a cross between rotten fish and sweaty socks.
In my obviously biased opinion, save the modern oils/lubes for modern guns and use traditional for muzzleloaders...
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