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Post by bushfire on Jul 3, 2023 23:18:42 GMT -7
I used to create fire with a fire lighter and a match and think that was pretty good. Then I got myself a ferro rod, then finally some flint and steel. Char cloth has been the easy go to, but I have thought in the woods when you’re running low of patching material or whatever you’re planning on using it’d be good to have a local alternative. That’s where you fine gentleman introduced me to punk wood. I had heard of it but hadn’t really heard a lot of discussion about people actually using it. Anyway, when I shot a deer recently I found some laying right near it so decided to l try it out.
My first attempt appears to be a success. Apologies if you can’t understand me, aside from the accent I have covid at the moment so am a bit stuffy.
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Post by paranger on Jul 4, 2023 4:50:21 GMT -7
Nice work, Bushfire!
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Post by brokennock on Jul 4, 2023 5:48:50 GMT -7
Well done friend. And thanks for sharing.
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Post by spence on Jul 4, 2023 10:47:20 GMT -7
I always found charred punk wood to be superior to char cloth in starting fires. Easy to catch a spark, last way much longer, and is not "delicate"... easily put out by mishandling. If there is bright sunshine I almost always use a burning glass to catch a spark in char wood, simple, fast and dependable.  Spence |
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Post by spence on Jul 4, 2023 12:05:55 GMT -7
Posting the photo of my tobacco box with a burning glass in the lid reminded me of one of the neatest 18th-century artifacts I’ve ever come across. For most of the time I’ve been doing re-enacting there has been a belief around that those tobacco boxes with a lens in the lid are not appropriate for the 18th-century persona. They were said to be from later in the 19th century. Imagine my surprise, and delight, when I stumbled on this on the web. www.ewbankauctions.co.uk/20151120F3-lot-999-18th-century-Pontypool-tobacco-box-the-cover-with-inset-magnifying-glass-and-inscription-Bright-fol-through-this-your-pipe-will-light-and-help-old-age-to-read-and-write-11cm-Provena?arr=0&paper_filter=0&high_estimate=0&export_issue=0&image_filter=0&box_filter=0&sort_by=lot_number&auction_id=37&low_estimate=0&list_type=list_view&lots_per_page=10&page_no=20&view=lot_detail;It is listed as being from Pontypool in South Wales. It has floral decorations on the cap of the lens and an inscription around the edge of the cover, with a long S in sol, “Bright fol through this your pipe will light, and help old age to read and write.” So, it is painted, or more likely japanned, and since there is “some rust inside”, I assume it is made of iron, not brass. From the snuff box collection of Michael Shrubb. I always accepted the “fact” that my tobacco box with burning lens was not HC/PC, but no longer. Not perfect, maybe, because it’s brass, but close enough for me. Spence |
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Punk wood
Jul 4, 2023 13:55:37 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by brokennock on Jul 4, 2023 13:55:37 GMT -7
Thank you for that link Spence. Another great contribution.
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Post by bushfire on Jul 4, 2023 15:56:36 GMT -7
Thank you for the kind words gentleman.
And thank you Spence for the link, that is very fascinating. I might have to get myself a burning glass. I've not had a lot of experience with that.
On the subject of fire, was friction fire done much in the 18th century or was it mostly antiquated by that point?
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Post by Black Hand on Jul 5, 2023 4:20:13 GMT -7
On the subject of fire, was friction fire done much in the 18th century or was it mostly antiquated by that point? It appears to be a lost skill by the 17-18th century in the colonies once flint and steel was in common use. Regardless, it is a good skill to have. Other friction methods may have been used elsewhere on the planet. Try charring other materials - you may find some that work quite well. We found bracket fungi on an old Cedar that worked very nicely. Different species have different characteristics... |
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Post by Black Hand on Jul 5, 2023 8:24:10 GMT -7
The fire struck by white man's steel is not sacred fire. You must put out such fire in your lodges and kindle a new fire using the old way...
Tenskwatawa
This might suggest friction fire - F&I era.
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Post by hawkeyes on Jul 5, 2023 9:17:25 GMT -7
Very nicely done. Charred fungus and punkwood is the old go to even today. Other materials aside it just seems to always catch and burn HOT.
Enjoyed watching that little video.
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Post by bushfire on Jul 5, 2023 15:44:42 GMT -7
I went out to the family block of land yesterday afternoon. Had a go at using the charred punk wood and candles up a fire quickly.
Also shot the fusil and got the ram rod stuck down at the breach. In trying to get it out managed to snap it below the level of the muzzle. Not sure how to approach it now. Always something!
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Punk wood
Jul 5, 2023 17:19:25 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by brokennock on Jul 5, 2023 17:19:25 GMT -7
I went out to the family block of land yesterday afternoon. Had a go at using the charred punk wood and candles up a fire quickly. Also shot the fusil and got the ram rod stuck down at the breach. In trying to get it out managed to snap it below the level of the muzzle. Not sure how to approach it now. Always something! Hopefully you have access to the materials to make a new ramrod. If you were able to get the ramrod off the breachface, you have two options. The ever popular, "trickle some powder in and shoot it out." Or, if you have a screw in vent liner, what I think is the better option. Unscrew the liner, find a grease fitting that matches those threads, attach grease fitting and start pumping grease. It will slowly but surely push the ramrod out. |
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Post by Black Hand on Jul 5, 2023 17:20:03 GMT -7
Did you run a dry patch into the barrel? We've all done this at least once. Pour the barrel full of water, soak and pour out. Try to get a loop of leather around the rod (you'll need to get creative - I understand colorful sailor language is helpful) and pull. You could try shooting it out by working a little powder into the touch hole. Proceed at your own risk...this might be a little dodgy  . Of course, do this before the "wet" approach above. |
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Post by bushfire on Jul 5, 2023 18:12:21 GMT -7
So I had cleaned out the fouling and was putting my last patch with barricade for storage in when it happened. I was cutting out old shirt for cleaning patches and I think it was too big so when I tried to draw it back it bunched up against jag - if that makes sense. It's my centermark so no screw out touch hole liner.
My thinking was to loop something over and try to get it out that way. The real pain is hickory rods are very hard to come by and now that I've snapped it getting a replacement is going to be a pain.
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Post by brokennock on Jul 6, 2023 1:16:36 GMT -7
I'm wondering if you can pull the barrel, get a loop of very strong cordage around the rod, heat the barrel with a heat gun to get some expansion, then pull it out.
I had a rifle with a messed up bore, stuff would get stuck frequently. I found that when using a cord to pull the rod out it was best to attach the cord to something over my head so I could pull down on the gun using my weight, rather than just pulling on the cord.
If you have an air compressor and a small tip for it you could try blowing it out that way. I've used this before to eject a stuck jag, but it was on a cap lock. Be careful, it may come out at high speed.
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. Of course, do this before the "wet" approach above.