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Post by paranger on Apr 10, 2020 17:58:24 GMT -7
Question for you builders out there: I have a King William doglock fowler that I love, but, like some originals (see P. 84 and 231 in Grinslade's "Flintlock Fowlers"), the wood on the underside of the forearm wore thin and split out into the ramrod channel. Like the examples cited above, I want to add a sheet brass wear plate as a make-do repair.
My question, having never worked with the stuff, is what gauge of sheet brass to use. Suggestions?
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Post by artificer on Apr 10, 2020 21:53:17 GMT -7
May I suggest you post this question on the other forum and only because Dave Person isn't a member here, to my knowledge?
Gus
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 11, 2020 3:11:28 GMT -7
I have not worked with much brass plating, however what I know is brass can be work hardened easily. Yet I still would not use thin sheets available at some craft stores. As Gus pointed out, personally my pebble brain is not best equipped to answer this one with a definite response. I do have some relatively thicker stock I use for simple toe plates. However the sheets are about 3/4" × 2" in length. Certainly would send a few to you.
Dave is a wonderful guy, send him a PM if you still frequent the other forum. That will guarantee you get good advice versus a multitude of other unrelated things. If I ever had a special question such as this one he was the only individual amongst a very few I would ever acquire information from with building.
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Post by paranger on Apr 11, 2020 4:48:37 GMT -7
Fair enough, guys, thanks. I will swallow my revulsion for that other forum and give it a try
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 11, 2020 6:00:54 GMT -7
Regardless, you will need to cut to shape, anneal before or after, shape to the stock profile annealing as needed and nail into place. All the brass wear plates I've seen (not many) were installed that way.
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 11, 2020 6:17:31 GMT -7
Regardless, you will need to cut to shape, anneal before or after, shape to the stock profile annealing as needed and nail into place. All the brass wear plates I've seen (not many) were installed that way. Certainly a task you could complete, good info right here from BH and something I guarantee Dave P would also say. Can you share some images of the example your trying to replicate? You can text them and I'll post them up here for you. I'm no expert builder but I absolutely strive for perfection and detail. If it's something out of my skill range I have no problem admitting it, however I've got a very good idea of what your trying to accomplish and how.
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 11, 2020 6:57:25 GMT -7
As far as I remember, the wear plates were all surface mounted, not inlet.
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Post by paranger on Apr 11, 2020 8:06:06 GMT -7
Yes, definitely surface mounted, and generally crude. I have seen some nailed and some with screws.
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Post by paranger on Apr 11, 2020 8:09:33 GMT -7
Grinslade p. 84. This one ca. 1800.
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Post by paranger on Apr 11, 2020 8:12:13 GMT -7
This one is from Grinslade p. 231, on a fowling piece dated 1753, and is closer to what I am envisioning with nails.
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Post by brokennock on Apr 11, 2020 11:18:46 GMT -7
Can you show us a pic of the breakthrough?
I'll add to the advice to contact Dave Persons. Sometimes it takes him a bit to respond as he stays pretty busy, but his advice will be spot on.
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 11, 2020 11:37:26 GMT -7
As I had assumed. 100% sheet brass will be sufficient for this project and something I'd use. Likely I'd procure .063, no larger which is 1/16" and the images look like .063 to my eye. .032 would be thinner and easier to work but I'd likely stay with .063.
You can use a piece of 3/4" round bar or various alignment tools as makeshift swages to form the brass. I usually will secure a piece of 3/4" mild steel round bar in my blacksmith's vice and work pieces on that easily, nothing special required! It's important that you anneal the piece as you work. Brass will harden as you hammer and is prone to cracking. When I'm making a toe plate or forming a piece to a specific contour after checking the fit I'll heat it and continue work. The contours in that piece are not extreme or dramatic so it should be an easily accomplished task. Don't forget to countersink those screw holes!
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Post by paranger on Apr 11, 2020 11:54:50 GMT -7
As I had assumed. 100% sheet brass will be sufficient for this project and something I'd use. Likely I'd procure .063, no larger which is 1/16" and the images look like .063 to my eye. .032 would be thinner and easier to work but I'd likely stay with .063. You can use a piece of 3/4" round bar or various alignment tools as makeshift swages to form the brass. I usually will secure a piece of 3/4" mild steel round bar in my blacksmith's vice and work pieces on that easily, nothing special required! It's important that you anneal the piece as you work. Brass will harden as you hammer and is prone to cracking. When I'm making a toe plate or forming a piece to a specific contour after checking the fit I'll heat it and continue work. The contours in that piece are not extreme or dramatic so it should be an easily accomplished task. Don't forget to countersink those screw holes! What do you use to anneal - propane torch?
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Post by Black Hand on Apr 11, 2020 11:59:48 GMT -7
Propane torch - heat to red and quench in water.
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 11, 2020 12:26:13 GMT -7
You got it! Same process for copper. It doesn't take much to heat! Then when your done polish as you'd like.
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