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Post by armando on Jan 8, 2022 14:24:03 GMT -7
So even though we’re talking about a belt axe, if you were carrying it in a shoulder sheath, which side is preferred?
I carry my shooting bag on my right side so I don’t want an ax handle getting in the way. But on my left side I feel it will be banging against my wooden canteen.
On a related note, I got myself one of those tiny (and often maligned ) Ft Meigs axes and I am thinking of making a shoulder carry for that as well. I find carrying a tomahawk/hatchet in my belt gets uncomfortable rather quickly.
What say you?
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Post by Rodman on Jan 8, 2022 15:34:59 GMT -7
So even though we’re talking about a belt axe, if you were carrying it in a shoulder sheath, which side is preferred? I carry my shooting bag on my right side so I don’t want an ax handle getting in the way. But on my left side I feel it will be banging against my wooden canteen. On a related note, I got myself one of those tiny (and often maligned ) Ft Meigs axes and I am thinking of making a shoulder carry for that as well. I find carrying a tomahawk/hatchet in my belt gets uncomfortable rather quickly. What say you? I like the looks of the little Meigs axe just too light for what I need. I have hunters axe from a well known maker but it’s a bit flat on top to be HC/PC. The weight and size are about right. I made a shoulder carry sheath for it and it was constantly getting in the way and as you say banging into things. The last two events I participated in I went with the belt carry an it worked out much better. RM
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Post by hawkeyes on Jan 8, 2022 17:37:30 GMT -7
Original belonging to Isaac Shelby, served in the Revolution and the War of 1812. Take note of his carry setup. Believe we may have discussed this piece before but I cannot recall with certainty... The Kentucky belt axe/ Meigs axe. I plan to reproduce one off this original piece eventually. I've carried my hawk in the small of my back for many a mile without issue or complaint. How are you carrying it within your belt? I personally contemplated constructing a shoulder rig at one point but couldn't justify another dangling accouterment across the shoulder.
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Post by Rodman on Jan 8, 2022 18:00:36 GMT -7
For me the small of my back seems the most comfortable. I don’t hang on vines and such. I tried with out a sheath. I didn’t get cut, but there were some abrasion on my waist coat. I built a light sheath for it and I am good now.
RM
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Post by Black Hand on Jan 8, 2022 18:13:54 GMT -7
That axe head looks a bit more substantial than the Meig's sold today...
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Post by Rodman on Jan 8, 2022 18:27:24 GMT -7
That axe head looks a bit more substantial than the Meig's sold today... I like it!, I like it a lot!!! Like you say that one looks lots more substantial!!! RM
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Post by paranger on Jan 8, 2022 18:50:42 GMT -7
For what it's worth, I think one potential trap folks fall into with axes, like a number of period implements, is to behave as if there were "patterns" or "models." With the exception of military issued gear (like the British LI axe, for example), this just wasn't the case. It is hard to banish our post-industrial age paradigms sometimes when thinking about our gear. All of the axes in this thread are period appropriate styles, with features and dimensions found in surviving originals - and there are myriad others.
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Post by Rodman on Jan 8, 2022 19:13:57 GMT -7
For what it's worth, I think one potential trap folks fall into with axes, like a number of period implements, is to behave as if there were "patterns" or "models." With the exception of military issued gear (like the British LI axe, for example), this just wasn't the case. It is hard to banish our post-industrial age paradigms sometimes when thinking about our gear. All of the axes in this thread are period appropriate styles, with features and dimensions found in surviving originals - and there are myriad others. So, with that being said, am I correct in saying that the Gransfors hunter has too flat of a top? Or will this work for 1825 ish... RM
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Post by Rodman on Jan 8, 2022 19:19:30 GMT -7
This is a documented 1820's trade axe, which the handle works to my benefit. Also, the lower portion of the bit is a fit and if you took about 1.0 to 1.5 off the top the Gransfors is close but... RM
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Post by Rodman on Jan 8, 2022 19:21:51 GMT -7
This is the bit "slip" I made to keep from messing up my waist coat. In the winter I am wearing a frock and the fabric is rather durable the backside of a waist coat not so much. RM
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Post by brokennock on Jan 8, 2022 19:37:36 GMT -7
Original belonging to Isaac Shelby, served in the Revolution and the War of 1812. Take note of his carry setup. Believe we may have discussed this piece before but I cannot recall with certainty... The Kentucky belt axe/ Meigs axe. I plan to reproduce one off this original piece eventually. I've carried my hawk in the small of my back for many a mile without issue or complaint. How are you carrying it within your belt? I personally contemplated constructing a shoulder rig at one point but couldn't justify another dangling accouterment across the shoulder. I believe we discussed it when I was thinking of recreating the Alexander MacKenzie shoulder carry tomahawk sheath.
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Post by hawkeyes on Jan 9, 2022 4:46:33 GMT -7
Original belonging to Isaac Shelby, served in the Revolution and the War of 1812. Take note of his carry setup. Believe we may have discussed this piece before but I cannot recall with certainty... The Kentucky belt axe/ Meigs axe. I plan to reproduce one off this original piece eventually. I've carried my hawk in the small of my back for many a mile without issue or complaint. How are you carrying it within your belt? I personally contemplated constructing a shoulder rig at one point but couldn't justify another dangling accouterment across the shoulder. I believe we discussed it when I was thinking of recreating the Alexander MacKenzie shoulder carry tomahawk sheath. Okay good call, I don't know if this is what the so called Meigs axe is based upon or not but I like it better. Haven't seen an original Meigs piece.
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Post by paranger on Jan 9, 2022 5:32:49 GMT -7
For what it's worth, I think one potential trap folks fall into with axes, like a number of period implements, is to behave as if there were "patterns" or "models." With the exception of military issued gear (like the British LI axe, for example), this just wasn't the case. It is hard to banish our post-industrial age paradigms sometimes when thinking about our gear. All of the axes in this thread are period appropriate styles, with features and dimensions found in surviving originals - and there are myriad others. So, with that being said, am I correct in saying that the Gransfors hunter has too flat of a top? Or will this work for 1825 ish... View AttachmentRM I am not exactly sure what you mean by "too flat a top." The thing that strikes me about this axe is the curved haft (which is a much later feature: late 19/early 20th c.).
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Post by paranger on Jan 9, 2022 5:34:16 GMT -7
View Attachment This is the bit "slip" I made to keep from messing up my waist coat. In the winter I am wearing a frock and the fabric is rather durable the backside of a waist coat not so much. RM Looks like a serviceable solution to me! Mine is quite similar.
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Post by paranger on Jan 9, 2022 13:11:37 GMT -7
View AttachmentThis is a documented 1820's trade axe, which the handle works to my benefit. Also, the lower portion of the bit is a fit and if you took about 1.0 to 1.5 off the top the Gransfors is close but... RM Ok, I think I understand. You are looking at the difference in the flare of the bit: symmetrical vs. asymmetrical, or single vs. double flared bit. Both are period correct forms.
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