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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 21, 2019 5:42:20 GMT -7
So I've always tried getting my parents to come off their punched tin chandelier which I've heard them being called a Washington chandelier, witchhat chandelier and a few other names but haven't really been able to nail down their exact origins or hardly any information on them. At any rate I contacted a uncle who deals with antiques and he gave me the contact information to a antique art museum in Michigan. Family is from the UP so I know he's had dealings with them in the past. Reached out and received some images of a chandelier they had in possession at one time but was sold off to a private seller. None the less the curator told me they had only came across a few, all in bad shape over the years. The example I'm sharing he said was one that had a approximate date range of 1780 and likely one in the best of conditions they've seen. I tried gathering more specifics but got nowhere really. However, I've been wanting one reproduced for my 18th century nook. Planned on hanging it above my table for aesthetic purposes to complement and set the mood for writing and what not. So I contacted my tinsmith friends and sent them the images I received of the actual chandelier. Now as of today I'll be going to pick up the completed reproduction along with a tin candle mold to make beeswax candles. I'll obviously post images once it's in hand. Can you all help in further documentation? I've searched through the web high and low and the next step was to make a trip into the library. I think the research in documentation is just as fun as playing, but does indeed get frustrating at times when hitting dead ends.    To add, here is my reproduction of a simple lap desk... Not finished so more images to come! Laid paper to wax seal! Will be nice to sit under that chandelier with a soft candlelight glow and write away.  As of now I've found some documentation and a original on the Colonial Williamsburg website, very pleased. |
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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 21, 2019 13:32:48 GMT -7
In my humble opinion think they did a marvelous job. Also got a tin wall sconce which will look great hanging. Now it's time to make some beeswax candles!  |
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990 
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Post by Keith on Oct 21, 2019 14:19:57 GMT -7
Shouldn't be too hard to make one of these chandeliers.  This is the writing desk I have been using since I was a child. My wife created this image for a calendar we made some years ago. Keith. |
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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 21, 2019 14:40:17 GMT -7
Shouldn't be too hard to make one of these chandeliers. This is the writing desk I have been using since I was a child. My wife created this image for a calendar we made some years ago. Keith. Very nice indeed, beautiful piece to have there. I had planned on constructing a more elaborate version but settled on the simplicity of the current one which will serve my needs for many years to come. |
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Post by Black Hand on Oct 21, 2019 15:49:30 GMT -7
Now it's time to make some beeswax candles! I'd like to see the candle mold, if you'd post a picture. Albert |
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Post by spence on Oct 21, 2019 15:54:59 GMT -7
That's a very nice chandelier, it will do you proud.
Have you molded candles before?
Spence
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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 21, 2019 17:29:27 GMT -7
I'm having them make me a 6" tin mold. Originally they went ahead and made me a larger one... In my excited state wanting a 6" mold slipped my mind. They actually supply Townsend with all their tin item's which is neat because I get everything at a MUCH lower price tag. Mold should be done tomorrow hopefully as I've got about 15lbs of beeswax just dying to become candles.
Spence to answer your question I've never actually done it with a historically correct mold. Any do's and don'ts?
I have solid understanding (I think) of the process and know it's very important to let the candles naturally cool within the mold so they don't crack. Also know it's important to fill each individual cavity in one go to avoid parting lines. Use of a release agent I'd figure would be helpful and some sealing clay to cover the wicks/ wick holes on the mold. Again, first go with a period mold so I am certainly open to suggestions! Thank you gents.
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Post by Black Hand on Oct 21, 2019 18:05:57 GMT -7
Make certain to (partially) fill the reservoir at the top of the mold, otherwise you may get a void in the base of the candle when the wax cools (much like happens when you underfill a bullet mold). If the candles stick, you can pour boiling water on the mold and they will release. Make certain to plug the bottom well (where the wick comes through) to keep the molten wax in the mold.
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Post by brokennock on Oct 21, 2019 18:42:18 GMT -7
Both chandeliers are gorgeous, the original and the new one. How far from the ceiling does it hang to be safe?
I've dipped candles before, long time ago as a boy scout project. Been thinking of having a go at it again. I'd like to make some tallow candles too. Is there anything one can do or add differently with either method, dipped or molded, to make them light easier off a coal when using flint and steel?
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Oct 21, 2019 19:40:35 GMT -7
Both chandeliers are gorgeous, the original and the new one. How far from the ceiling does it hang to be safe? I've dipped candles before, long time ago as a boy scout project. Been thinking of having a go at it again. I'd like to make some tallow candles too. Is there anything one can do or add differently with either method, dipped or molded, to make them light easier off a coal when using flint and steel?Lighting candles in the home was usually done using spunks/sulfur match, or you can drip wax onto the tinder to create flame. Keith. |
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Post by spence on Oct 21, 2019 19:50:08 GMT -7
I have no experience molding candles, but here is a slick system for the wicks. I have an antique 10-candle mold and set this up to help me understand how it was used as described in some old reference.    When removing the candles, you would cut the wicks at the tip in half for each pair, then use the sticks to pull the candles out, cut the wicks even at the bottom and clean up whatever was needed. You could also untie the sticks and pull single candles by the string. Spence |
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Post by brokennock on Oct 21, 2019 20:17:26 GMT -7
Thank you Keith. I'm thinking more towards when I light a candle away from home with only flint and steel. But, I may make some of those matches someday.
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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 22, 2019 6:03:49 GMT -7
I have no experience molding candles, but here is a slick system for the wicks. I have an antique 10-candle mold and set this up to help me understand how it was used as described in some old reference. When removing the candles, you would cut the wicks at the tip in half for each pair, then use the sticks to pull the candles out, cut the wicks even at the bottom and clean up whatever was needed. You could also untie the sticks and pull single candles by the string. Spence That is indeed the cats meow! |
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Oct 22, 2019 13:33:30 GMT -7
I have no experience molding candles, but here is a slick system for the wicks. I have an antique 10-candle mold and set this up to help me understand how it was used as described in some old reference. When removing the candles, you would cut the wicks at the tip in half for each pair, then use the sticks to pull the candles out, cut the wicks even at the bottom and clean up whatever was needed. You could also untie the sticks and pull single candles by the string. Spence This is exactly the way we made our candles, our mould is made from copper. Keith. |
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Post by hawkeyes on Oct 25, 2019 13:54:51 GMT -7
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