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Post by brokennock on Apr 1, 2020 5:31:26 GMT -7
I ordered one of the lines felt hat blanks from Jas. Townsend last night. I know I need to make a hat band, suggestions on common materials, styles, and methods of making the suggested types would be appreciated. I plan to trim the brim down to about 2.5 to 3" then bind the edge with cotton "tape" like what I used to bind the edge of the experimental bag I posted last month (but not blue). I seem to recall reading about brushing on some type of shellac to stiffen the hat and help with weatherproofing. Any suggestions on what product to buy and how to apply it? Last question. I don't plan to cock the brim, but, if I do, I would want to be able to cock the back of it up so that when I'm backed up against a tree (sitting or standing) while hunting the brim does not scrape the bark when I turn my head. Any good ways to achieve this so that it can be down to protect my neck in light rain and snow, and down as mentioned above, without penetrating the crown and causing a leak spot?
Thanks.
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 1, 2020 7:04:19 GMT -7
Good topic. You did well with a felted wool blank. I simply cut the brim to my liking and cocked the back which is secured with nothing more than a simple brass bodkin I made. Liner is just linen that is hand sewn with linen thread. Essentially made a tube and ran a leather thong through it for adjustment. As I become more civilized in my 18th century persona I've certainly grown to like my hat more and more.
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Post by paranger on Apr 1, 2020 9:11:46 GMT -7
As for cocking the hat, another option is a button and little piece of silk ribbon, etc. as shown. As an aside, I would suggest worsted wool binding tape over cotton, if you are concerned about PC. Cotton was a rare commodity in the colonies prior to the Revolution. Linen or wool are more realistic options. In the hat pictured I used green worsted tape as a hatband.
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Post by brokennock on Apr 1, 2020 11:28:31 GMT -7
Thanks fellas. Luckily the hat is already lined saving me a step and material. Can one visibly see the difference between cotton and wool tape? I understand the cotton was more expensive and less available in the period, but, I can get it locally now instead of having to order the wool.
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Post by paranger on Apr 1, 2020 11:41:00 GMT -7
Thanks fellas. Luckily the hat is already lined saving me a step and material. Can one visibly see the difference between cotton and wool tape? I understand the cotton was more expensive and less available in the period, but, I can get it locally now instead of having to order the wool. From a distance it is admittedly hard to tell. Up close, cotton has a sheen to it that is pretty unmistakable. Your call. We all make concessions and compromises at times... One thought might be to ask yourself how much of a hurry you are in and / or how long do you intend to have/use the hat to help you decide. For me (an admitted purist, perhaps in need of therapy), it would bother me over time. That said, everyone has a different threshold and different areas in which they are more or less particular. For example, I have seen some excellent material from Spence, Hawkeye, and others elsewhere on period firelock maintenance, which, by my own usual standard, I should follow regularly. And yet, I cling to my Ballistol and modern black powder solvent. Perhaps I just can't let go of 30 years of military experience and being OCD with weapon maintenance...
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Post by brokennock on Apr 1, 2020 20:37:21 GMT -7
Actually over time I plan to transition to a better quality hat. I am getting and finishing this one as an experiment in sizing. I have been trying to decide between "the longhunter," or "the low crown," found here; clearwaterhats.com/early-america/ I lean toward the "longhunter." But with all their warnings about fit I want to get it right. I normally wear some type of head cloth, silk or cotton bandana/scarf, under my hat, so the measurement isn't that easy. Any ideas on bands?
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Post by hawkeyes on Apr 2, 2020 3:58:37 GMT -7
For my own liking I prefer the bkanks. This leaves you more room for fitting and tailoring and obviously they are a cheaper option. You'll end up wearing a hat out if your a frequent flyer of the forest. Rain, snow, off and on dragging through the brush. It's all harsh on those felted wool hats over time.
I think you'll be happy working the blank to your liking. Mine is essentially the same dimensions concerning brim size as the one in the link you provided.
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Apr 2, 2020 7:30:25 GMT -7
Actually over time I plan to transition to a better quality hat. I am getting and finishing this one as an experiment in sizing. I have been trying to decide between "the longhunter," or "the low crown," found here; clearwaterhats.com/early-america/ I lean toward the "longhunter." But with all their warnings about fit I want to get it right. I normally wear some type of head cloth, silk or cotton bandana/scarf, under my hat, so the measurement isn't that easy. Any ideas on bands? Nock, Although I haven't made one for my hat yet I am partial to the look of a small strap with a buckle. I also figure you could use it in a pinch to bind something or another
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Post by lenapej on Apr 4, 2020 10:56:31 GMT -7
Brokennock, Please post pics of the progress of binding the edge of your brim with tape, I have been thinking of doing the same, thanks.
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Post by brokennock on Apr 4, 2020 23:49:48 GMT -7
Brokennock, Please post pics of the progress of binding the edge of your brim with tape, I have been thinking of doing the same, thanks. Will do. Once I get the blank. Townsend said it will take 4 to 5 weeks for delivery with the liner.
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Post by brokennock on Apr 18, 2020 11:51:17 GMT -7
So my hat blank with liner arrived from Jas. Townsend today. Two weeks and a couple days after ordering and being told it would be 4 to 6 weeks with the liner. Excellent work Jas. Townsend, excellent work.
Obviously, being a blank, the brim is very wonky. Not flat, which will make measuring and trimming for and even width brim all the way around the crown, challenging. Will ironing it work to flatten it? Will this add a weird smoothness to the felt that won't look right?
I probably could have gone 1/8th inch smaller, even with a silk scarf around my head, but I've learned to hate a tight hat. As long as it doesn't blow off easily all is well. My understanding is that the felt may shrink a it the 1st time it gets wet anyway.
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Post by paranger on Apr 18, 2020 13:35:27 GMT -7
I have had good results ironing wool felt hat brims. If you use steam, you can shape it as desired. If you screw up, just steam it again and reshape.
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Post by brokennock on Apr 18, 2020 14:05:15 GMT -7
Thanks. The only "shape" I want right now is flat, so I can accurately measure the same distance all the way around the crown. Then cut it off neatly and cleanly.
To attach my edge binding. I have the same tape I used for the edge binding on the bag flap for the craft store materials bag, but brown instead of blue. When I fold it over the edge am I better off treating the project like leather and poking holes with an awl through tape and felt brim, then stitching with a saddle stitch. Or, should I just use a really sharp glover's needle and a running stitch?
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Post by spence on Apr 18, 2020 14:05:33 GMT -7
Will ironing it work to flatten it? Will this add a weird smoothness to the felt that won't look right? Based on my experience with a couple of cheap felt blanks I believe ironing will flatten it. You might want to put a thin piece of cloth, cotton sheet or such, over the part you are ironing, the heat will still flatten, but won't make it shiny, I think. Spence
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Post by paranger on Apr 18, 2020 14:23:46 GMT -7
I just did a simple running stitch on mine. Seemed to work fine.
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