RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on May 28, 2022 8:15:22 GMT -7
“Long Oval” is needed if the measurement over the peak of your dome is significant greater from brow-to-back than it is from ear-to-ear. Quality felt hats will mould to your head shape within reason, but the long oval helps if you’re more than a little out of round. I had some photos of an original colonial straw hat but can’t locate it. Or my notes. From reading straws were very prevalent in the southern colonies and in ‘tropical’ locations. The were often worn by slaves because they were cheap. Though not unheard of, they weren’t as common in the middle and New England colonies. They were often woven at home from local materials and conformed to the standard round-crown pattern of the typical felt hat. Cocked hats were about fashion, originally turned up to display the wig. Utility wasn’t really a consideration. ‘Purchased’ modern straws… should have a rounded crown. That’s about it. Then do what needs to be done to make it PC/HC. I get the sense from reading that these were essentially disposable. Colonial Williamsburg slave impression. From Townsends. Townsends cocked. I think there’s something in “Tidings…” in the section on hats. It’s mostly women’s hat being discussed, but there’s a quip about men’s straws.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on May 31, 2022 21:44:26 GMT -7
While trying to research hats c.1740-1750, I came across this bit on the Kabinettskreig blog.
“An anonymous author wrote the following in The New-York Weekly Magazine:
Among the many things invented by man for his use, none perhaps is more ridiculous than the three-cornered hat at present used by some persons. That it affords but an inconsiderable shelter to the head, is a truth scarcely to be denied; and that the face of him who wears it remains exposed to the piercing rays of the sun, is equally true. If our ancestors deemed it a conveniency to wear the hats in question, experience teaches us at the present day, their great inutility: And shall we then willing smile on those customs which (tho' formerly practiced) proves at present highly injurious? No; Let us cosult our own feelings, and not the habits of former times.-- Common sense points out their inconsistency, and reason mocks the stupidity of him who madly submits to be ruled by custom, that tyrant of the human mind, to whose government three-fourths of this creation foolishly subscribe their assent. Again, the weight which is comprised in a hat of that size, is a sufficient argument for their abolition. Wherein then can the utility of such an unwieldy machine consist? Is not the round hat more becoming? And does it not finally prove to the head by far the best covering? The contrary cannot be urged unless through prejudice or selfishness. That it looks respectable and sacred, may be urged in favour of it; to this I reply, that if to be impudent constitutes either of those characters, the three cornered hat has the great good fortune to be superior to the other. It may be further advanced in its favour, that by letting down its brings it will answer the purpose of an umbrella in a hot summer day: ture that for size it may, but where is the person that would not rather make use of the real than the fictitious machine? Why was the pains taken for the invention of an umbrella, if the hat could be made to answer the same views? Was it not because the hat attracting the rays of the sun, was found to be injurious to the eyes, and therefore recourse was had to a machine which proved not only shelter from the sun, but to the eyes far more beneficial. To conclude, nothing but a false pride, and a desire to be conspicuous, could ever induce a person thus inconsistently to use that which will finally prove his folly. -- TRYUNCULUS, New-York, July 7, 1796.
Just as the revolutionaries toppled the monarchies of Europe, the great push to end social deference finally destroyed the three-cornered hat.”
Your a revolutionary ahead of your time, ‘nock!
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on May 31, 2022 21:49:04 GMT -7
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Post by brokennock on Jun 1, 2022 7:19:08 GMT -7
While trying to research hats c.1740-1750, I came across this bit on the Kabinettskreig blog. “An anonymous author wrote the following in The New-York Weekly Magazine: Among the many things invented by man for his use, none perhaps is more ridiculous than the three-cornered hat at present used by some persons. That it affords but an inconsiderable shelter to the head, is a truth scarcely to be denied; and that the face of him who wears it remains exposed to the piercing rays of the sun, is equally true. If our ancestors deemed it a conveniency to wear the hats in question, experience teaches us at the present day, their great inutility: And shall we then willing smile on those customs which (tho' formerly practiced) proves at present highly injurious? No; Let us cosult our own feelings, and not the habits of former times.-- Common sense points out their inconsistency, and reason mocks the stupidity of him who madly submits to be ruled by custom, that tyrant of the human mind, to whose government three-fourths of this creation foolishly subscribe their assent. Again, the weight which is comprised in a hat of that size, is a sufficient argument for their abolition. Wherein then can the utility of such an unwieldy machine consist? Is not the round hat more becoming? And does it not finally prove to the head by far the best covering? The contrary cannot be urged unless through prejudice or selfishness. That it looks respectable and sacred, may be urged in favour of it; to this I reply, that if to be impudent constitutes either of those characters, the three cornered hat has the great good fortune to be superior to the other. It may be further advanced in its favour, that by letting down its brings it will answer the purpose of an umbrella in a hot summer day: ture that for size it may, but where is the person that would not rather make use of the real than the fictitious machine? Why was the pains taken for the invention of an umbrella, if the hat could be made to answer the same views? Was it not because the hat attracting the rays of the sun, was found to be injurious to the eyes, and therefore recourse was had to a machine which proved not only shelter from the sun, but to the eyes far more beneficial. To conclude, nothing but a false pride, and a desire to be conspicuous, could ever induce a person thus inconsistently to use that which will finally prove his folly. -- TRYUNCULUS, New-York, July 7, 1796. Just as the revolutionaries toppled the monarchies of Europe, the great push to end social deference finally destroyed the three-cornered hat.” Your a revolutionary ahead of your time, ‘nock! 🤣 🤣 🤣 That's absolutely wonderful. Thank you. He nailed it. I'd love to read what he would say today about folks with their ball cap on backwards or sideways, 😆
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Post by brokennock on Jun 1, 2022 7:21:40 GMT -7
Yes, they have beards, but, they are not common folk. Not in the sense that they are like the average colonial male of the time. They are of a unique sect, like the Amish with their mustacheless beards, their facial hair marks them as different.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 1, 2022 7:42:15 GMT -7
Yes, they have beards, but, they are not common folk. Not in the sense that they are like the average colonial male of the time. They are of a unique sect, like the Amish with their mustacheless beards, their facial hair marks them as different. Oh I know. I just think that’s the first image I’ve ever seen of 18th century beards.
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Post by spence on Jun 1, 2022 13:50:33 GMT -7
As far as I can find, the Moravian church was not one of those which required men to wear beards. Does anyone have information to the contrary? The Wiki article on the Moravian church shows a painting of a group of Moravians with King George II, 1752-1754, and none of them have beards.
If they weren't required, then those men with beards had them of their own choice.
Spence
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 1, 2022 14:26:20 GMT -7
As far as I can find, the Moravian church was not one of those which required men to wear beards. Does anyone have information to the contrary? The Wiki article on the Moravian church shows a painting of a group of Moravians with King George II, 1752-1754, and none of them have beards. If they weren't required, then those men with beards had them of their own choice. Spence Good point, Spence. From what I can gather, beards weren’t mandated by the church until later… 1810s. Then the mandate was for beards but no mustaches, the mustache being a sign of the militia. Facial hair norms don’t seem to be consistent among the Brethren through time. In Europe, they seem to have gone clean shaven to avoid being easily identified as ‘other’ and marked for religious persecution… especially where the Catholic Church still had significant power. You’re absolutely correct. In the absence of a strict mandate from the church, these men were wearing beards by choice.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 1, 2022 16:01:29 GMT -7
I seem to have made a mistake in attributing this to Moravian history. The Church of the Brethren is a separate sect. Both religions call their members “the Brethren” and both have roots in Germany. Moravian religion is much older. The Church of the Brethren (known as Dunkers, but the Dunkers eventually separated) was formed in the early 18th Century.
Anyway. I’ll try to keep my Pennsylvania religious sects clear in the future.
Brethren beards… From the article linked to under the illustration above:
… At the core of Brethren beliefs was the idea that there is “no force in religion.” To require believers to submit to a particular style of dress would have violated one of the fundamental principles of the Brethren. Esther Fern Rupel further theorized in her book, Brethren Dress: A Testimony to Faith, that identifying characteristics that marked the Brethren as dissenters from the state religion, such as a uniform, would bring further persecution. Likewise, as poor refugees, the Brethren would not have discarded existing vestments in favor of another. The founding Brethren would have dressed according to their socio-economic class—the local peasant or artisan class. Men would have worn a beard and long hair with “a linen shirt, knee breaches, long stockings, heavy shoes, and a broad-brimmed black felt hat.” …
…When the Brethren migrated to the New World in the 18th century, they continued to wear the same clothes associated with German immigrants. Over time, the Dunker’s interactions with other immigrant religious groups influenced their style. M.G. Brumbaugh credited the neighboring Pennsylvanian Quakers for inspiring change in the Brethren’s style of dress. Brethren men sported a beard that was characteristic of other nonviolent sects in Pennsylvania, while the women wore plain, non-patterned fabrics and a white headdress. …
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Post by spence on Jun 1, 2022 16:26:30 GMT -7
Brethren beards… From the article linked to under the illustration above: Keep me on the straight and narrow....are these particular brethren the Moravians or the Duncards? BTW, slightly OT, in 1750, Dr. Thomas Walker made what may be the first recorded trip into the Kentucky frontier. On the way, but before he crossed the mountains, he came across a group of settlers that he described like this: "16th March. We kept up the Staunton to William Englishes. He lives on a small Branch, and was not much hurt by the Fresh. He has a mill, which is the furtherest back except one lately built by the Sect of People who call themselves of the Brotherhood of Euphrates, and are commonly called the Duncards, who are the upper Inhabitants of the New River, which is about 400 yards wide at this place. They live on the west side, and we were obliged to swim our horses over. The Duncards are an odd set of people, who make it a matter of Religion not to Shave their Beards, ly on beds, or eat flesh, though at present, in the last, they transgress, being constrained to it, they say, by the want of a sufficiency of Grain and Roots, they have not long been seated here. I doubt the plenty and deliciousness of the Venison and Turkeys has contributed not a little to this. The unmarried have no Property but live on a common Stock. They don't baptize either Young or Old, they keep their Sabbath on Saturday, and hold that all men shall be happy hereafter, but first must pass through punishment according to their Sins. They are very hospitable." Spence
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Jun 1, 2022 21:12:11 GMT -7
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 2, 2022 6:40:24 GMT -7
Spence said: Keep me on the straight and narrow....are these particular brethren the Moravians or the Duncards? Sorry, friend! Dunkers/Dunkards/Duncards. Great stuff, Keith! Every time I go to your blog I learn something new. I end up digging for hours. Guys with beards… a clever convict runaway, a bearded man with a young girl , a pirate, an author, a beggar, and some other men with magnificent beards. Ha. I agree that away from city fashions (and military command), men may do as they please depending on the importance they place on style and custom. A few follow up ponderings… Were civilian Scots in North America wearing traditional highland beards or going clean shaven? What about in Highland the regiments on campaign? Captives… we’re white men in Indian captivity (or eventually assimilated into the tribe) able to acquire razors to remain clean shaven? Interesting stuff! Whatcha got on hats? I’ve determined to make a hat from a blank (recommendations?) but I’m still working on a 1740s-1750s type appropriate for a middle class civilian arriving on the frontier. The style of cock seems all over the place. I’m also trying to find images of period linings without much luck. Back to sewing.
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Post by paranger on Jun 2, 2022 6:49:36 GMT -7
Captives… we’re white men in Indian captivity (or eventually assimilated into the tribe) able to acquire razors to remain clean shaven? Interesting stuff! I expect that Indian captives adopted or other Europeans who voluntarily assimilated into native culture would likely have followed the native practice of plucking out their hair (including facial) with a bivalve shell, or later small coil springs acquired as trade goods. thedqtimes.com/pages/castpages/other/Indian%20Customs/indianscuttinghair.htm
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Post by spence on Jun 2, 2022 7:30:14 GMT -7
Captives… we’re white men in Indian captivity (or eventually assimilated into the tribe) able to acquire razors to remain clean shaven? Robert Eastburn, who was taken prisoner while on a campaign against Canadian Indians in 1756, refused to dance and sing with his Native captor, incurring his wrath. Some of the Indian women took pity on him, and: "...prevailed with the Indian to excuse me from dancing; but he insisted that I must be shaved, and then he would let me alone (I had at that Time a long Beard, which the Indians hate) with this Motion I readily complied, and then the Indian seemed content." Spence
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jun 2, 2022 9:50:15 GMT -7
Geez this stuff is great! Muscle shell whisker pluckers and bearded captives that refuse to dance!
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