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Post by brokennock on Jul 3, 2022 5:53:46 GMT -7
"Every fpecies generally of falt water Fifh, are beft frefh from the water, tho’ the Hannah Hill, Black Fifh, Lobfter, Oyfter, Flounder, Bafs, Cod, Haddock, and Eel, with many others, may be tranfported by land many miles, find a good market, and retain a good relifh;" ".... Eels, though taken from muddy bottoms, are beft to jump in the pan." I gave no idea what she means by that second quote. Saute is french for "jump." My guess is she means to "saute" or pan fry them. Thank you.
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Post by spence on Jul 3, 2022 6:56:46 GMT -7
The Tudor Monastery Farm is at this link. The program is 58+ minutes, the eel bits are at 6:45, 12:45, 18:30, and she cooks them at 52:15. www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwlipLOBBiYSpence
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Post by brokennock on Jul 3, 2022 12:34:47 GMT -7
The Tudor Monastery Farm is at this link. The program is 58+ minutes, the eel bits are at 6:45, 12:45, 18:30, and she cooks them at 52:15. www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwlipLOBBiYSpence Thank you Spence
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 31, 2022 17:53:25 GMT -7
RyanAK I think we are on the same page regarding waistcoats and jackets, thanks for your input. Brokennock I have come across mainly three styles of cuffs in reference to jackets, And there may be more. View Attachment One of the most common styles I have come across is the "slash sleeve, or cuff" most of the time seen open and hard to tell if there is a button, and normally you can see the shirt cuff and 1 or 2 inches of sleeve. View Attachmentnother common style is the "mariners cuff" seen here usually with several buttons. View AttachmentThe third is just a simple cuff normally without buttons (Man playing fiddle) seems like this was a later style. Thank you for cuff samples. I was mostly questioning cuffs on jackets and the second two would appear to me to be either coats or sleeved waistcoats. I'm thinking that with both the jacket and the sleeved waistcoat coat being meant to be worn under the coat, cuffs would be a bit closer fitting than on the coat or frock. Not a criticism of the info provided, it is appreciated. I ran across this discussion on sleeved waistcoats v. jackets that might shed some light. This was from an old set of ’regs’ for one of the Battle Road groups regarded as having high standards. The jacket or the sleeved waistcoat, as we have discussed at the Clothing Seminars, is a garment for the working class. It might be described as a shortened version of a coat or a waistcoat with sleeves. Since terms vary so widely in period descriptions we settled on the following profiles to help us in discussing them. A sleeved waistcoat would be cut in the style of a waistcoat and without a collar, with buttons of 5/8-inch or smaller and spaced reasonably close together as smaller buttons generally are. A jacket would be cut much like a sleeved waistcoat and may or may not have a collar and cuffs. The buttons generally being larger than 5/8-inch and therefore spaced further apart. Both having pockets and pocket flaps, with or with our buttons on the flaps.
When making or having made either of these two garments, you'll find that J.P. Ryan and Smoke and Fire offer sleeved waistcoat patterns. These may be simpler to use than cutting down a frock coat pattern but that too is an option. You may choose to line your garment or simplify it by using a heavy coat-weight wool. This garment has worked out well for those who didn't think they could make a jacket. I've demonstrated with the J. P. Ryan pattern and coat-weight woolens from the remnant table at Spalco Factory Store. With the heavier wool you can use ¼ " seams and leave them as is, or whip stitch them. The lower edge can be left raw so that only a minimal amount of detail work is required. For the collar and pocket flaps you'll possibly want a lighter weight backing fabric which can be of a different color and fabric altogether. This pattern does run true to fit for the 18' century man, that is say, snuggly. If you'd like a looser fitting jacket use a size or two larger. The armholes tend to be snug as well, be sure to measure the armseye before starting. I generally add half inch to both seam allowances on the shoulder seams and then cut the sleeve cap slightly larger for all but the slimmest of bodies.
This is a great garment to have for a laborers impression especially if you can find some worn out, old wool, or maybe your wife's faded out petticoat needs a new use as a summer jacket. This would offer you a chance to use a mix-mash of old buttons, and then, have a few missing! For a nicer jacket, self covered, wooden, pewter or bone would be likely choices.
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Post by lenapej on Aug 5, 2022 9:40:52 GMT -7
RyanAK Thanks for that, I would agree with that, I have been on a jacket craze lately and have been spending a lot of time finding and collecting period images of jackets. It seems the main difference between a jacket and sleeved waistcoat is as your article states, more and smaller buttons, and (if we are talking about the 50's) slightly longer skirts for a waistcoat, and many times the sleeves were of a cheaper material than the body as waist coats were mostly worn under a coat, though not always. Jackets can be of various lengths according to the images I've seen, anywhere from waist to about the length of a waist coat. I have a few images, mostly sailors, that had a short waistcoat with a jacket over the top, the jacket being about an inch or two longer. The jacket is my favorite outer garment and here are two pics to demonstrate my opinion of the difference between a jacket & waistcoat, The jacket (The red one, I'm thinking of dying it... don't really care for the red) made of linen, and a sleeved waistcoat made from an old green wool blanket ( I'm the one in the middle)
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Post by paranger on Aug 5, 2022 12:25:15 GMT -7
RyanAK Thanks for that, I would agree with that, I have been on a jacket craze lately and have been spending a lot of time finding and collecting period images of jackets. It seems the main difference between a jacket and sleeved waistcoat is as your article states, more and smaller buttons, and (if we are talking about the 50's) slightly longer skirts for a waistcoat, and many times the sleeves were of a cheaper material than the body as waist coats were mostly worn under a coat, though not always. Jackets can be of various lengths according to the images I've seen, anywhere from waist to about the length of a waist coat. I have a few images, mostly sailors, that had a short waistcoat with a jacket over the top, the jacket being about an inch or two longer. The jacket is my favorite outer garment and here are two pics to demonstrate my opinion of the difference between a jacket & waistcoat, The jacket (The red one, I'm thinking of dying it... don't really care for the red) made of linen, and a sleeved waistcoat made from an old green wool blanket ( I'm the one in the middle) I have another reason for ya to dye that red linen: Madder, by far the most common period red dye, does not set well in linen. A light pink is about the best I have seen from some natural dyers online who attempted it. Madder works great in animal fibers, but not so much in plant fiber. Cochineal - the next most common period red - was much more expensive and largely inaccessible to all but the wealthy. Just try to find a documented period madder linen garment. I did some time ago with not much luck.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Aug 5, 2022 13:32:59 GMT -7
Great looking garments, J. I like the cut of both. If you made them, you did a great job. A lighter linen jacket for summer and a wool sleeved waistcoat for winter are both on my (long) "to-do" list.
I'm with my fellow Pennemite... I'd dye the red jacket. I actually like the color, but I've also had difficulty locating red linen examples of anything. Lots of red wool though.
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Post by lenapej on Aug 7, 2022 15:32:28 GMT -7
Paranger Agreed, I have some references to "red" & "crimson" jackets, but no cloth description, I have a bit of brown Rit dye with which I dyed a scrap piece of the red linen, and turned out pretty good, so I will probably use the rest of it for the jacket, brown seems pretty easy to document.
RyanAK Thanks, but you haven't seen the jacket up close, Lol!! pretty narly job, and I want to make another jacket...or two, when I save up enough to buy the correct cloth.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Aug 7, 2022 16:51:15 GMT -7
J - My issue is now the opposite. While I had time to create while laid up, I now have zero spare time with my return to work and the stupid hours I’ll be keeping for the next year. I’m concentrating my time on the shirts I’m sewing and then on to a flintlock. I can swing the cost of fabric… and if I really wanted to, I could purchase a sleeved waistcoat or jacket. Or greatcoat for that matter. But I’ve found that my standards for clothing are pretty high and I don’t know if there’s a vendor out there I’d task with sewing something for me.
First world problems, eh?
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Post by lenapej on Aug 8, 2022 15:46:44 GMT -7
RyanAK, don't worry, it gets worse...one never has enough...or the stuff I have is not good enough, etc etc, this is a sickness! LOL!
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