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Snapsack
Jul 5, 2022 14:57:48 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by paranger on Jul 5, 2022 14:57:48 GMT -7
I like how the walnut dye and waxed finish turned out.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 5, 2022 15:03:48 GMT -7
Damnit!
I do need to work on using walnut to get an even dye job.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 5, 2022 15:05:12 GMT -7
I like how the walnut dye and waxed finish turned out. Thanks, friend. It’s a little uneven but better than previous attempts. Lots of soak time and multiple applications.
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Post by Black Hand on Jul 5, 2022 16:55:20 GMT -7
Damnit! I do need to work on using walnut to get an even dye job. Good luck. Natural dye and natural fabric - might be a quixotic quest.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 5, 2022 18:15:00 GMT -7
I like the look. Actually prefer it. But I would rather have the skill to control it. Know what I mean? I have stapes cut for a tumpline and two belts, so I’ll be able to experiment a bit.
This was just such a rewarding project.
Ok. It’s shirt week and I just got my fabric. Time to focus. Shirts and draw file the gun barrel. No side projects for a bit. Shirts and barrel. 😜
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Post by artificer on Jul 6, 2022 2:49:29 GMT -7
It does add weight. I feel good about the weatherproofness. I’ll do a test when it rains here again. An 8’x8’ tarp would weight 43 lbs! I have a Tentsmiths 8x8 that’s remarkably light, but that’s certainly not straight beeswax. Come on, Gus! Gimme some criticism on the leather! <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> Ryan, it looks to me like you did a fine job with the leather and I have no technical criticism to offer. The only criticism, as small as it is, would be in the third picture and from an 18th century professionally trained leather worker's perspective, but that is not what you are now or as your period persona. A period professional would have angle "clipped" the corners of the end of the strap that goes on the underside of outside strap. This so neither corner on the end of the strap would have been seen from the outside of the top strap. If it matters to you and it doesn't make your stitching any stronger; the key to making your saddle stitches look like they were done by a professional is to ensure one thread on one side of the leather always goes over (or under, whichever you choose) the thread from the other side of the leather and it has to be done the same on every stitch you make exactly the same. This will give the uniform and sort of angled look to each stitch. Sometimes your stab holes may not be equal size, or the holes might be a bit too big for your needles and thread, or you may be stitching through three or four thicknesses of leather, or you may be stitching through different thicknesses of leather and other material (as you did sewing the strap to the cloth bag) and the uniform angle stitches don't show as nicely. In these cases, period professionals MAY have used a saddle stitch with a knot to get those nicely angled and uniform stitches. Actually some professionals always stitched/stitch in this manner. At 5:54 in the following video, Neil Armitage shows how to do this. Oh, as he points out the knot doesn't make the stitching stronger, it just ensures the stitches have the professional angled look. www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGuiha5S2oE
BTW, I wish a video like the above had been available when I began doing leather work, as it is chock full of information on saddle stitching.
Gus
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Post by hawkeyes on Jul 6, 2022 4:55:08 GMT -7
I like the look. Actually prefer it. But I would rather have the skill to control it. Know what I mean? I have stapes cut for a tumpline and two belts, so I’ll be able to experiment a bit. This was just such a rewarding project. Ok. It’s shirt week and I just got my fabric. Time to focus. Shirts and draw file the gun barrel. No side projects for a bit. Shirts and barrel. 😜 I wouldn't draw file the barrel until your inlet work is done. You'll remove and replace the barrel a zillion times and for certain you'll booger it up. Also, I know you've got a round/ octo barrel. Only the visible flats need filed and finished. My two cents and take it only as that.
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Post by Black Hand on Jul 6, 2022 5:40:59 GMT -7
Time to focus. Shirts and draw file the gun barrel. No side projects for a bit. Shirts and barrel. 😜 I wouldn't draw file the barrel until your inlet work is done. You'll remove and replace the barrel a zillion times and for certain you'll booger it up. I agree completely. File the barrel after fully inletting to smooth the metal and give some space for finish (You DO finish raw wood covered by other parts, don't you? I do.)
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Post by brokennock on Jul 6, 2022 7:51:38 GMT -7
It does add weight. I feel good about the weatherproofness. I’ll do a test when it rains here again. An 8’x8’ tarp would weight 43 lbs! I have a Tentsmiths 8x8 that’s remarkably light, but that’s certainly not straight beeswax. Come on, Gus! Gimme some criticism on the leather! <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> Ryan, it looks to me like you did a fine job with the leather and I have no technical criticism to offer. The only criticism, as small as it is, would be in the third picture and from an 18th century professionally trained leather worker's perspective, but that is not what you are now or as your period persona. A period professional would have angle "clipped" the corners of the end of the strap that goes on the underside of outside strap. This so neither corner on the end of the strap would have been seen from the outside of the top strap. If it matters to you and it doesn't make your stitching any stronger; the key to making your saddle stitches look like they were done by a professional is to ensure one thread on one side of the leather always goes over (or under, whichever you choose) the thread from the other side of the leather and it has to be done the same on every stitch you make exactly the same. This will give the uniform and sort of angled look to each stitch. Sometimes your stab holes may not be equal size, or the holes might be a bit too big for your needles and thread, or you may be stitching through three or four thicknesses of leather, or you may be stitching through different thicknesses of leather and other material (as you did sewing the strap to the cloth bag) and the uniform angle stitches don't show as nicely. In these cases, period professionals MAY have used a saddle stitch with a knot to get those nicely angled and uniform stitches. Actually some professionals always stitched/stitch in this manner. At 5:54 in the following video, Neil Armitage shows how to do this. Oh, as he points out the knot doesn't make the stitching stronger, it just ensures the stitches have the professional angled look. www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGuiha5S2oE
BTW, I wish a video like the above had been available when I began doing leather work, as it is chock full of information on saddle stitching.
Gus Good advice on always passing the thread over or under from the same side. One thing that I picked up, I think from the Armitage videos, is that it matters which one goes over and which one under based on the angle of the diamond shaped hole. Unfortunately I lack the ability to describe it here in writing.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 6, 2022 8:13:05 GMT -7
It does add weight. I feel good about the weatherproofness. I’ll do a test when it rains here again. An 8’x8’ tarp would weight 43 lbs! I have a Tentsmiths 8x8 that’s remarkably light, but that’s certainly not straight beeswax. Come on, Gus! Gimme some criticism on the leather! <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> Ryan, it looks to me like you did a fine job with the leather and I have no technical criticism to offer. The only criticism, as small as it is, would be in the third picture and from an 18th century professionally trained leather worker's perspective, but that is not what you are now or as your period persona. A period professional would have angle "clipped" the corners of the end of the strap that goes on the underside of outside strap. This so neither corner on the end of the strap would have been seen from the outside of the top strap. If it matters to you and it doesn't make your stitching any stronger; the key to making your saddle stitches look like they were done by a professional is to ensure one thread on one side of the leather always goes over (or under, whichever you choose) the thread from the other side of the leather and it has to be done the same on every stitch you make exactly the same. This will give the uniform and sort of angled look to each stitch. Sometimes your stab holes may not be equal size, or the holes might be a bit too big for your needles and thread, or you may be stitching through three or four thicknesses of leather, or you may be stitching through different thicknesses of leather and other material (as you did sewing the strap to the cloth bag) and the uniform angle stitches don't show as nicely. In these cases, period professionals MAY have used a saddle stitch with a knot to get those nicely angled and uniform stitches. Actually some professionals always stitched/stitch in this manner. At 5:54 in the following video, Neil Armitage shows how to do this. Oh, as he points out the knot doesn't make the stitching stronger, it just ensures the stitches have the professional angled look. www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGuiha5S2oE
BTW, I wish a video like the above had been available when I began doing leather work, as it is chock full of information on saddle stitching.
Gus Thanks, Gus. I value your thoughts and experience. Hope my request didn’t come off as snotty. Clipping the corners is an excellent tip. I’ll do that on my belts. Likely that a Snapsack wasn’t a professional-made item, and certainly not by a leatherworker, so I feel my oversight there is PC. Saddle stitching - I found it impossible to do the ‘normal’ two-needles running saddle stitch in this scenario, so it was ‘out-and-back’ with a single needle. I’m just off of fabric sewing and started my stitches like that - with a knot in the end of the thread. Because of that, my start point isn’t as strong or neat as I’d like. I should have started one or two holes from the last and ‘doubled up’ the stitches at that point. BTW - those stitches are through 6/7oz veg tan and 3-6 layers of 10oz waxed linen canvas. I’m surprised it wasn’t harder than it was!
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 6, 2022 8:16:13 GMT -7
I like the look. Actually prefer it. But I would rather have the skill to control it. Know what I mean? I have stapes cut for a tumpline and two belts, so I’ll be able to experiment a bit. This was just such a rewarding project. Ok. It’s shirt week and I just got my fabric. Time to focus. Shirts and draw file the gun barrel. No side projects for a bit. Shirts and barrel. 😜 I wouldn't draw file the barrel until your inlet work is done. You'll remove and replace the barrel a zillion times and for certain you'll booger it up. Also, I know you've got a round/ octo barrel. Only the visible flats need filed and finished. My two cents and take it only as that. Appreciate that advice… however, this is a ‘rough’ barrel that doesn’t have all the shape to it yet. The flats aren’t flat or even and don’t yet transition to round. I ain’t finish filing, simply getting the shape established to that it can be inlet. If that makes sense…
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 6, 2022 8:20:21 GMT -7
I’ll put progress I make over in the build thread, but here’s where I’m starting.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 6, 2022 8:21:28 GMT -7
Walnut dye. One quick application, and the other with many over the better part of a day.
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Post by artificer on Jul 6, 2022 9:31:12 GMT -7
Thanks, Gus. I value your thoughts and experience. Hope my request didn’t come off as snotty. Clipping the corners is an excellent tip. I’ll do that on my belts. Likely that a Snapsack wasn’t a professional-made item, and certainly not by a leatherworker, so I feel my oversight there is PC. Saddle stitching - I found it impossible to do the ‘normal’ two-needles running saddle stitch in this scenario, so it was ‘out-and-back’ with a single needle. I’m just off of fabric sewing and started my stitches like that - with a knot in the end of the thread. Because of that, my start point isn’t as strong or neat as I’d like. I should have started one or two holes from the last and ‘doubled up’ the stitches at that point. BTW - those stitches are through 6/7oz veg tan and 3-6 layers of 10oz waxed linen canvas. I’m surprised it wasn’t harder than it was! Ryan, No problem, I didn't take your request as snotty at all. Actually, at times I am concerned some of my suggestions on the way they did things with leather in the 18th century might come across that way. Sometimes it was merely a different way or merely the look/fashion of the period, but sometimes the difference is theirs was a better way to do things. I barely got any tutoring in the early years of leather working and made all kinds of mistakes because of it and I would like to save others from making those mistakes. I have to sheepishly admit when I first began to sew buckskin with two needles and thread, I ran one needle and thread down say 8 or 9 holes and then the other needle down to that point. That's when I "discovered" that putting the thread on top of the other through one hole and the next time under the thread and so on, made it look like good quality hand stitching I had seen and was trying to emulate. The great book on Hand Stitching by the Stohlmans did not come out until about five years after I began leather working and I actually didn't run across it for a few years after that. I emboldened your last sentence because I'm wondering if you know of a leather tool that probably would have helped you with that stitching either of more than two layers of leather or a combination of leather and layers of something else. Do you know what a "Fid" is? Now there's a difference between using a short awl to line up holes in leather that don't always match when sewing along and especially when sewing through three or more thicknesses of leather. (The best professionals can hold a short awl in their hands for doing that while they are stitching, but my big fat fingers are too clumsy to do that.) You don't want to use a sharpened awl when you are sewing leather and fabric together as it is too easy for the sharp awl to cut/tear the fabric. A "Fid" is an unsharpened tool that opens/aligns the hole for your stitching with no chance of tearing fabric or opening the hole too much in thin leather. Actually, it can also be used to align holes in leather as well, so an awl won't open a hole too much when too close to another hole or when the leather is not very thick. They actually make Fids in different sizes and the link below shows you what a Fid looks like. (You glue the flat end into a wood handle that is not shown, just as an awl can be glued into a wood handle.) www.amazon.com/3-5-Fids-Cord-Leather-Work/dp/B0859MSZKJ?th=1A Fid was something else I didn't learn about being an amateur, but I also sort of discovered it by using a large enough needle to open/align holes. So, I glued a larger needle into a wood handle and blunted the point. That does the exact same job. Oh, I have to get ready for another VA appointment, so I'll be out of battery for the next several hours. If you have more questions, please feel free to write them and I'll answer after I get back. Gus
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 6, 2022 10:08:02 GMT -7
So one of my other interests is early North American sailing craft. I drew plans and have the material list worked out for an 1870s Connecticut oystering sharpie. Two masts, ketch rigged. I WILL build this. While working this out I looked into period sailmaking… since my insanity knows no bounds. Before striking this as too crazy an endeavor for even me, I learned a lot about the tools of the trade, including a fid. And a sailmakers palm. Both look like darn handy tools.
Best wishes for your appointment, Gus.
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