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Post by brokennock on Feb 27, 2020 4:09:46 GMT -7
I have a new tube of "Solder it" brand "Silver Bearing solder paste." Is this adequate to hold the forward most barrel lug in place on my 20 gauge Fusil des Chase? The solder holding it in place let go years ago and I haven't felt I have the skills and materials to do the repair job myself. This stuff sounds easy to use, and like the heat required to use it should be low enough to not mess up the barrel's browning finish.
Thoughts?
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Post by Sicilianhunter on Feb 27, 2020 4:54:01 GMT -7
I have a new tube of "Solder it" brand "Silver Bearing solder paste." Is this adequate to hold the forward most barrel lug in place on my 20 gauge Fusil des Chase? The solder holding it in place let go years ago and I haven't felt I have the skills and materials to do the repair job myself. This stuff sounds easy to use, and like the heat required to use it should be low enough to not mess up the barrel's browning finish. Thoughts? Nock, Ironically, I need to do the same thing to my FdC!! Well, my front sight is just horribly HUGE and needs to be replaced which I plan to do. Apparently, that soldering paste is the Bee Knees as it came highly recommended to me from a friend that builds rather well. I trust his opinion but I made need to get the job done sooner than I am able to get my hands on that product so I was just going to use regular solder. Is that not recommended ? Unfortunately, I'm not sure if it will mess with the browning ?
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Post by Black Hand on Feb 27, 2020 5:18:38 GMT -7
I've used the silver-bearing paste solder (Stay brite?) for all lugs and sights with great success and it is plenty strong (ballpein hammer tap test). The steel or brass must be clean, but that is no different than with other solders....
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Post by brokennock on Feb 27, 2020 6:30:06 GMT -7
I have a new tube of "Solder it" brand "Silver Bearing solder paste." Is this adequate to hold the forward most barrel lug in place on my 20 gauge Fusil des Chase? The solder holding it in place let go years ago and I haven't felt I have the skills and materials to do the repair job myself. This stuff sounds easy to use, and like the heat required to use it should be low enough to not mess up the barrel's browning finish. Thoughts? Nock, Ironically, I need to do the same thing to my FdC!! Well, my front sight is just horribly HUGE and needs to be replaced which I plan to do. Apparently, that soldering paste is the Bee Knees as it came highly recommended to me from a friend that builds rather well. I trust his opinion but I made need to get the job done sooner than I am able to get my hands on that product so I was just going to use regular solder. Is that not recommended ? Unfortunately, I'm not sure if it will mess with the browning ? Track of The Wolf. (I know, I should have asked before I ordered it, but, I was ordering other stuff already) I had it in 3 days.
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Post by brokennock on Feb 27, 2020 6:33:05 GMT -7
The other question I have on it's use is,,,, Is the paste sticky enough to adhere to the barrel if I place the lug in it's inlet in the stock, put some past on it, set the barrel in the barrel channel, then gently lift the barrel out?I figure this will get my placement on the barrel such that I won't need to mess with redrilling the hole for the pin in the lug.
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Post by Black Hand on Feb 27, 2020 7:27:29 GMT -7
Might be. Personally, I'd use the wire from the center of a long twist-tie to hold the lug for positioning...
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Post by hawkeyes on Feb 27, 2020 9:01:47 GMT -7
I have a new tube of "Solder it" brand "Silver Bearing solder paste." Is this adequate to hold the forward most barrel lug in place on my 20 gauge Fusil des Chase? The solder holding it in place let go years ago and I haven't felt I have the skills and materials to do the repair job myself. This stuff sounds easy to use, and like the heat required to use it should be low enough to not mess up the barrel's browning finish. Thoughts? Silver bearing solder is good stuff, very strong for it's lower working temperature. Guess I don't need to say much, BH got it covered. What I do personally for lugs is: Clean/ flux the area, place a small amount of solder in the lug hole, use safety wire to secure it down, heat and go. Watch that you don't overheat the area or you will scorch the solder and weaken it's hold. When properly heated it should obviously look like liquid silver, if it starts turning yellow you have overheated the area of repair.
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Post by brokennock on Feb 27, 2020 11:11:52 GMT -7
Thank you for the replys. Still not sure I have the guts to try this myself.
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Post by Black Hand on Feb 27, 2020 11:17:22 GMT -7
Go for it!
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Post by hawkeyes on Feb 27, 2020 12:11:43 GMT -7
Thank you for the replys. Still not sure I have the guts to try this myself. You literally can't screw it up. You have to learn regardless! The only issue is to much heat which is easy to remedy. Let the area cool, clean it off and go at it again. Keep the heat back and slightly moving, don't focus your torch on the single area as you'll overheat it quickly. Once the solder turns to a thick liquid immediately pull the heat and your done. That easy and you can do it, nothing hard.
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Post by artificer on Feb 27, 2020 13:00:20 GMT -7
The other question I have on it's use is,,,, Is the paste sticky enough to adhere to the barrel if I place the lug in it's inlet in the stock, put some past on it, set the barrel in the barrel channel, then gently lift the barrel out?I figure this will get my placement on the barrel such that I won't need to mess with redrilling the hole for the pin in the lug. Unfortunately no, I doubt the paste will stick the lug to the barrel strong enough, in the manner you describe and desire. As far as trying to solder the lug back on, without the need to re-drill the hole afterwards, I also seriously doubt that would be possible. Can you tell where the lug should sit on the barrel by the outline of the old solder on the barrel or perhaps where the browning didn't brown the barrel metal? Gus
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Feb 27, 2020 14:17:57 GMT -7
Mate, I am hard core on this stuff, & have only ever soldered these lugs to the barrel. I have no experience with this modern "solder paste". But this is a personal choice. If my barrel was browned, which it is not (still in the white but somewhat stained over the years), I would sooner use the correct method of soldering regardless of the browning. I imagine that 300 years ago a woodsman would not likely worry about the aesthetics of his gun/rifle. Just my thoughts. Keith.
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Post by artificer on Feb 27, 2020 17:31:27 GMT -7
Hi Keith, "Silver Paste" is a Low Temp Silver solder that doesn't require near as hot of temperatures to flow as High Temp Silver Solder or even higher Brazing temperatures, the latter two can harm a steel barrel if not done very carefully. As much as I have used High Temp Silver Solder to solder many front sights to the slides of .45 pistols and the needed heat to do it, I would NEVER use High Temp Silver Solder or Brazing on a steel barrel. I have soldered higher front sights on dozens of BP UnCivil War Rife Muskets and Rifles and Low Temp Silver Solder works great for that as well. Yet properly done, Silver Paste is plenty strong enough to hold barrel lugs. As with any soldering job though, the metals to be joined have to be clean so the solder can stick to both surfaces AND the solder has to flow properly (as has been well explained by others above). One thing I would add is to keep the torch moving slowly around the lug to heat it slowly and carefully and then you get the best success with the solder properly flowing at the correct heat. One must first mark the spot the lug will go on. Often, you can get that by the bare metal and or the traces of solder still on the barrel when the first solder joint failed. Personally, I scribe a line around the lug that scratches a bit into the surface of the metal all the way around. It will later be covered by the solder. After thoroughly cleaning both surfaces to bare metal where it will be soldered, the next step is to flux and then "tin" or get a thin layer of Silver Paste on the bottom of the lug and let that cool, then clean the bottom of that thin surface layer of solder. I often use a little 150 Emory Cloth (sandpaper for metal) for that and then flux it again. Black Hand mentioned using wire to hold the lug so it doesn't slip as the solder flows. It is even better if the lug is held with a spring clamp that will keep pressure on the lug as the solder melts, so it doesn't slip as easily. A spring clamp like this is often REAL handy and just remember to cut the vinyl tip off one jaw and that's the jaw to put directly on the lug. www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-2-in-Spring-Clamp-80002/100027346Gus
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Post by brokennock on Feb 27, 2020 19:57:53 GMT -7
Thanks for the votes of confidence. I have no doubt that I can solder the lug to the barrel successfully. It is the getting it positioned correctly part that I have serious doubts about.
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Keith
City-dweller
Bushfire close but safe now. Getting some good rain.
Posts: 990
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Post by Keith on Feb 27, 2020 20:12:40 GMT -7
Thanks for the votes of confidence. I have no doubt that I can solder the lug to the barrel successfully. It is the getting it positioned correctly part that I have serious doubts about. If the holes do not line up, simply drill the hole with the barrel in the stock. In fact you could just solder on a blank with no hole & drill afterwards. That is what I did. Solder the barrel, then solder the lug, place the lug on the barrel & heat gently. the two will meld together. It does not take much heat to melt solder. I have used separate flux, & fluxed solder, the fluxed solder wire is the easiest to use. You can do this with an iron or a propane torch. The iron makes a neater job & does not heat the barrel. You can have a practice first on some scrap metal just to get the hang of it. No rush, take your time. Clean the metal beforehand, I used a fine needle file, but emery will work too. Keith.
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