RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Post by RyanAK on Apr 14, 2023 8:35:23 GMT -7
Thanks, Spence. I'll need to take a look.
Gus - lye soap from what I've been able to find. Waistcoats are often of a material that doesn't hold odor, such as wool. Extant linen shirts often show evidence of having the underarm gussets replaced because of the yellowing and breakdown caused by perspiration.
|
|
|
Post by Black Hand on Apr 14, 2023 9:34:43 GMT -7
One can hang clothing in the sun and it will "clean" and deodorize the item somewhat. Also wool doesn't seem to get as dirty or hold dirt as well as other fabrics.
|
|
|
Post by paranger on Apr 14, 2023 10:51:39 GMT -7
Brushing was the traditional cleaning method for wool clothing. It will remove most visible surface dirt, anyway.
|
|
|
Post by artificer on Apr 14, 2023 11:09:54 GMT -7
That was great, Spence,
I have run across bluing for laundry before, but didn't know what it was and how it worked.
Thank you.
Gus
|
|
|
Post by artificer on Apr 14, 2023 11:11:57 GMT -7
Brushing was the traditional cleaning method for wool clothing. It will remove most visible surface dirt, anyway. They were still doing that right up to the time dry cleaning came out. Gus
|
|
RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Post by RyanAK on Apr 14, 2023 15:13:53 GMT -7
Form For the Heat is Beyond Your Conception
In the absence of linings, tailors had to ensure that exposed seams would not unravel or fall apart after repeated wear or stress from cleaning. Planter Robert Beverly of Blandfield in Virginia, constantly reminded his tailor in England about the need for careful construction of his clothing. Beverley’s London tailor, while probably not making thin unlined garments on a regular basis, understood the need to adapt and to meet the demands of his client in Virginia. When ordering a new coat for the summer Beverley specified, “The coat to have mohair buttons and the moulds of the buttons of the waistcoat and breeches to made of something that will not stain in washing.” Waistcoats and breeches were laundered more frequently than coats. Surviving buttonmolds show various cheap woods that would leach tannin and discolor the fabric wrapped around them when wet. In 1774, Beverley ordered yet another set of clothing from the same tailor in London, and scolded him from Virginia, “The colour of the cloth coat, I do not admire. The white Jean waistcoat and breeches are not made of stuff so fine as I desired and the buttonholes were sewed so miserably with such very course thread, that they unraveled upon the first washing, and I have been obliged to have them resewn.” Beverley begrudgingly placed the order and concluded, “…also two white Jean waistcoats and two pair of breeches, 2 pairs of the very finest drill breeches, these washing articles without lining.” Summer clothing worn close to the body received heavy laundering in the south due to perspiration.
|
|
|
Post by Black Hand on Apr 14, 2023 19:58:12 GMT -7
I just started to look at a sleeved 1750s waistcoat that I picked up for $25 and formulate a plan. While a much simpler garment than the frock I'm working on, some of the alterations will be a bit more challenging due to the modern construction methods used by Townsend. Small things like the pocket flaps being sewn through both the garment and the lining fabric add steps to the work. Luckily only 9 small buttons and buttonholes to work. The simple plan of buttons, buttonholes, interfacing, size alteration and a quarter lining will give me a versatile garment in a sleeved waistcoat/jacket that should do for 1750s through the early 1770s. Now... which buttons... I view buttonholes as a challenge - they are quite satisfying to do with tight, neat stitches.
|
|
RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Post by RyanAK on Apr 15, 2023 7:34:26 GMT -7
I, too, find them enjoyable. The challenge on the coat is 28 open/closed work buttonholes 2-1/2” long. I’ve gone through 20 meters of silk buttonhole twist so far and still have a pocket and both sleeves to do. I’m getting pretty good… the first ones must have been done by a drunk tailor’s apprentice on a Friday afternoon. Working with the melted nylon buttonholes is really not enjoyable either, but I’m finding tricks to make it work. Here is the complete pocket flap with three closed work buttonholes, topstitching, and buttons attached to peek. Also the row of open/closed buttonholes on the chest. I started at the bottom and worked town the collar, so the lowest ones are the first I did while figuring things out.
|
|
|
Post by Black Hand on Apr 15, 2023 12:09:06 GMT -7
Imperial and Metric in the same post - well done!
I find Imperial imprecise and somewhat annoying. I prefer Metric...
|
|
|
Post by Black Hand on Apr 15, 2023 12:38:08 GMT -7
Nice job on the buttonholes & "buttonholes"...
|
|
RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Post by RyanAK on Apr 15, 2023 13:19:20 GMT -7
Well… I actually only guessed at 2-1/2”. I made a tic mark on a piece of cardstock that looked “right” as a guide. I do carpentry that way too. By hand and eye.
|
|
RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
|
Post by RyanAK on Apr 15, 2023 13:20:43 GMT -7
Nice job on the buttonholes & "buttonholes"... Thank you!
|
|