Modifying ‘Off-The-Rack’ Clothing to be More PC

Gonna need a nice linen shirt. Working on that. 

Mighty fine looking start.

Buttons on coats were going through a transition in the 1750s. Earlier coats, like the ones below, often had many small buttons right to the hem of the large skirts.

Note that on a great many extant coats from throughout the century, not all off the front buttons were functional, having buttons and false buttonholes only for show. Occasionally, depending on the era and style of cut, none of the buttons on the coat front were functional. The location of the working buttons depended on the cut of the front of the coat. On these early coats, the buttons below the hip line are not functional. On coats from the later part of the century, as the lower front fell away and behind, only three or four buttons on the chest would be working. 

It took me forever to track down an image to illustrate the next point, and it still isn’t ideal.

Coats throughout the century were constructed with ‘interfacing’ in various parts of the coat. In the period, this was a flax textile called buckram - a heavy, open-weave, tow fabric, heavily coated with paste (think white glue) to stiffen it. This was used to give structure to various parts of the coat. Often pocket flaps. Sometimes the entire chest on formal coats. Tall collars when they became the fashion. And… almost always… the button line. 

Buckram between the coat body and the lining along the line of buttons and buttonholes provided support and structure for when the coat is worn open. A 1-1/2” strip allows the coat to maintain shape, especially when metal buttons are used. 

It took a while to find an image of an extant coat on a hanger, rather than on a tailor’s form. Then to find one of an unbuttoned coat. I wasn’t able to meet those two criteria and one with metal buttons, but this should do to illustrate the use of buckram for interfacing. My coat without interfacing and a 1750s example with buckram. Note the button line difference between the two coats. As far as I can tell, the use of interfacing behind the buttons and buttonholes was standard tailoring on all coats, regardless of quality. 




Bored? We haven’t even gotten to cuffs and pocket flaps yet! 

Body is lined with same fabric as the coat exterior. Skirts are not. In the third photo of the first post with pictures you can see where the lining ends. I’m trying to decide whether I’ll fix the white bobin thread or add a lining to the skirt. Leaning towards lining the skirt with… something. Coat is mid-weight 5.3oz/yd2 linen. 

Here’s that image again. 
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Not too thick. On par with most shirting, though heavier than fine handkerchief weight. Most wear for me will be in the fall/spring and I think it’s PC to doff the waistcoat and just wear a buttoned coat. It’s light enough to I do think about a wool suit of clothes for December and January flintlock season. Either way, I think I’ll line the skirt with… something.