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Post by Black Hand on Jul 5, 2022 8:27:15 GMT -7
Flames would be WAY cooler! |
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 5, 2022 8:34:42 GMT -7
And fast. Like a marsupial.
I have emails out. I’ll track down European walnut. If I can’t, I’m sure I can manage Dave Person’s dye treatment.
Hand, get your Turkey feathers?
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Post by Black Hand on Jul 5, 2022 8:43:40 GMT -7
I was given a couple leads to follow...
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 7, 2022 15:19:00 GMT -7
Had a wonderful chat with Dave Person today. What a prince of a guy!
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Post by hawkeyes on Jul 7, 2022 15:39:07 GMT -7
Had a wonderful chat with Dave Person today. What a prince of a guy! He's a wonderful guy. He probably doesn't remember but he helpedme with advice when I restored an original Ohio half stock rifle. Learned allot from his willingness to share. Lord I've made plenty of mistakes and its always good to have someone knowledgeable for the build. He's the only person I miss from the "Other forum". |
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 7, 2022 16:35:17 GMT -7
“Call anytime, Ryan. And make sure to introduce yourself at the gunmakers’ fair. I’ll help any way I can.”
Prince of a guy.
He did tell me that a Pennsylvania smoothbore would be extremely appropriate for the 1750s. Certainly WAY more English guns coming into the territory, but quite a few Pennsylvania guns as well. He feels good that even though there aren’t any known examples around, that we can assume what they would have looked like with some confidence. Certainly more confidence than what we assume rifles looked like in the same period. Lots of acceptable parts available for this build and American stock wood would be VASTLY easier to come by. Bridled or unbridled pan of English or German import. My barrel is good to go.
Per Dave, an English import gun of good quality in 1740s or early 50s would have a bridled pan and would most likely have a standing breach and keyed barrel. I’m not sure I’m up for that. Not because I couldn’t do it, but because I don’t want this to spiral and stall because I started adding things to make for an insurmountable project. So if I build one, my English gun will be pinned. That could be justified by backdating the build to the earliest of the 1740s and using an unbridled lock. Locks in the 50s were transitioning to flat faced on the more expensive guns. Parts are available, European Walnut isn’t. I have one lead so far on an extra fancy piece for $600. That’s not in the cards for me. I could manage the dye process on black walnut to simulate English wood without issue… I do like the stock architecture of the English guns.
I need to remind myself that this won’t be my only build. This smoothbore, then a ‘secret squirrel’ project, then an early rifle. Then whatever else I want to build.
So… English.
No! Pennsylvania!
Doh! 😖
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Post by paranger on Jul 7, 2022 16:39:37 GMT -7
Wow, more interesting perspective. Ok, roll with it, my friend. A Pennsylvania fowling piece. It'll be GREAT.
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Post by hawkeyes on Jul 7, 2022 16:50:56 GMT -7
Personally I'm more fond of our black walnut. First blank I did was a trade rifle stocked in black walnut. It's honestly my favorite wood, more so than maple but maple is easier to work. Walnut has a tendency to splinter and can be naughty when working it in that regard, be prepared for that. I'd certainly go for a fine piece without hesitation. Actually, contact American walnut.com and see what they have available. Also, cherry would be a fine choice as well. Works much like walnut and takes a beautiful finish. I did an experiment using iron nitrate on cherry and it was gorgeous.    Images never do any justice concerning finish. |
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Jul 7, 2022 20:07:57 GMT -7
Why is wood so darn pretty?
I’m going to try to touch base with Allen Martin tomorrow to see about wood. He lives up the road a couple miles. Maple or cherry for a Pennsylvania gun. Walnut for an English fowling piece. Maybe there’s a slab out there that will make the decision for me.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Aug 7, 2022 16:57:12 GMT -7
Pennsylvania smoothbore. No turning back now. Have a lead on wood, and my ankle is well enough to stand at the bench for a bit to work.
Don’t let me stray. Early Pennsylvania Smoothbore.
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RyanAK
City-dweller
Once scalped…
Posts: 973
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Post by RyanAK on Aug 13, 2022 8:30:57 GMT -7
Couple of quick questions as I'm sitting at the powerhouse this lovely Saturday... (it's slow... should have brought shirts to sew...)
Does anyone have good examples of or thoughts on Germanic fowler stock architecture c.1750? I've found later guns (all of the ones in Flintlock Fowlers are post AWI), but can't seem to locate anything from before the War. Actually... I have one that may be 1770s in Moravian Gunmaking II... And a Neumaker gun I tracked down on the interwebs that is 'dated' later but feels earlier... I have enough examples of carving and engraving from presumed early rifles that can guide me there, but the overall architecture for a German-made smoothbore is sort of a mystery... unless it more-or-less follows the pattern of the British fowling and trade guns.
Also... I'm looking for examples of octagon-to-round barrel transitions that don't use a wedding band. I've seen this on several 'overall' photos of guns, but no close-ups to see the details.
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